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An ikat collective that weaves memorable journeys

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Traveller's Notes
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For Watubo weavers, ikat is as much an ancestral devotion as it is a profession. Supporting weavers’ livelihoods through contemporary iterations of the craft can provide resources and renew weavers’ interest in the traditional form.

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Counterfeit ikat is unfortunately common, made in factories in Java. These factories mass-produce either mechanically woven or printed fabrics bearing ikat motifs from all over Indonesia, and sell them at a fraction of prices of original pieces. Rosvita calls this a desecration of cultural ancestry, stolen for profit.

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Travellers to Sikka can observe the prominence of ikat motifs at places of interest, which were pointed out to me by Watubo during our guided tour. For example, ikat is painted onto sacred buildings, such as church interiors and on the footstool of Mary, Mother of  AllNations.

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As is the case in many parts in rural Eastern Indonesia, Watubo weavers appreciate gifts of areca nuts (pinang), betel peppers (sirih) and ground limestone (kapur). Easily bought in local wet markets, a few dollars’ worth of sirih-pinang makes an effective icebreaker.

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THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE

By shopping Watubo products, you support the development of Sikkanese ikat as a sustainable livelihood for Watublapi residents. To date, Watubo has worked with 25 weavers, most of whom are women under the age of 50, as well as a few men. 

Supporting demand for vegetable-dyed ikat also encourages weavers to stick with dyeing processes that are safe for people and the environment, and to conserve culturally important plants such as morinda and indigo.

Supporting ikat as a sustainable profession in Watublapi would encourage their young people to stay in the village and contribute to the community. A strong ikat business also encourages other collaborations, such as working with Watublapi graduates who have left the village but whose business skills and connections to the outside world can benefit weavers. 

You can find Watubo's original creations on Noesa's website. Look out also for ikat items made with fabrics from Watublapi by Noesa

Noesa can be contacted for further enquiries about Watubo via WhatsApp at +62 81315556670. 

Meet Rosvita of Watubo

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COVID-19 has cast a pall over the tapestry of empowerment woven by Watubo, but the collective is steadfast in its vision of ikat that lifts lives
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An ikat collective that weaves memorable journeys
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Getting there
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Watublapi is a 45-minute drive from Maumere, the largest city in Sikka regency.

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Maumere’s Frans Seda Airport is 18km away, and has incoming flights from Denpasar (Bali), Labuan Bajo (West Flores), Kupang (West Timor) and Waingapu (East Sumba).

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An eco-tour of Lombok with an ex-shark fisherman

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About the host

An ex-secondary school teacher from Singapore, Kathy Xu’s passion for the environment and dismay over shark trade spurred her to start The Dorsal Effect. Her solution? Persuade shark fishermen to earn their livelihoods as eco-tour guides, and save sharks from being hunted down for their fins. "When you see sharks in their natural habitat, I think there is a point where something would change in you and you really want your future generations to able to experience that as well," says Kathy. 

Kathy Xu
The Dorsal Effect
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Explore Lombok’s natural beauty and laid back charm with a former shark fisherman who has hung up his nets in favour of guiding tourists. 

THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE

Booking an eco-tour could help fulfill Kathy’s audacious dream - to get more shark fishermen to switch to leading such eco-tourism tours for a sustainable income.

Demand from responsible travellers like you encourages fishermen to consider eco-tourism as an alternative to hunting sharks for income.

In the long run, this could improve the situation for the shark population in the region, and result in a healthier marine ecosystem in and around Lombok.

See our story about The Dorsal Effect and its impact.

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Explore Lombok’s natural beauty and laid back charm with a former shark fisherman who has hung up his nets in favour of guiding tourists.
The Dorsal Effect offers eco-tours of Lombok with ex-shark fishermen
An eco-tour of Lombok with an ex-shark fisherman
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Getting there
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Travellers can fly to Lombok, or catch a boat from nearby islands. The Dorsal Effect can pick you up from Kuta, Senggigi or Mataram. Costs differ depending on your selected pickup point. Tours usually start at the fish market in Tanjong Luar.

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Traveller's Notes
Traveller's Notes
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The Dorsal Effect advocates sustainable tourism, so littering is a no-no.

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Do not pick up corals from the seafloor or take them out of the water.

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You may be asked to help pick up litter from the beaches — all part of helping the environment.

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Wear a rash guard while snorkelling to protect yourself from the sun and pesky jellyfish.

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Pack a reef-safe sunscreen. You wouldn't want your trip to damage the marine environment.

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Bring along a handy torchlight

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This is not a luxury cruise – be prepared for the simple charms of rustic travelling in the great outdoors.

A cooking school with a recipe for hope

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A cooking school in Bali shut their doors when the pandemic started. But a new mission has them fired up: feeding Balinese in need
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A cooking school with a recipe for hope
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Getting there
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Tresna Bali is located in Ubud, a 45-minute drive from Seminyak or Canggu, or a quick 10-minute drive if you are staying in Ubud centre. Drivers can be easily hired from either location to take you there

Travel Inspiration

Flavours and stories of Timor’s Mollo highlands

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About the host

For a small additional fee, Dicky’s parents provide two rooms in their family home as a homestay.

These rooms are shared with other guests; guests are far and few in between for now, but up to six may be staying with the Sendas at a given time.

Dicky’s father Ignasius Senda is a retired policeman of Flores origin, and mother Ferderika Kamlasi is a respected home cook and  a master of old-school Timorese cuisine. They should be addressed as “Bapa (Senda)” and “Mama (Rika)” instead of by name.

Bapa Senda and Mama Rika
Lakoat.Kujawas
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Kapan has cold nights, especially between June to August, the Southern Hemisphere winter months. Bring a light jacket with plenty of light warm layers. You can also buy a local tenun scarf from Lakoat.Kujawas (for less than US$20), which also makes a good keepsake.

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Although Heritage Trails are a day trip, do spend a few more days there and get to know the lovely community.

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Lakoat.Kujawas plans to offer more homestay options in future. For off-site accommodation, inexpensive hotels are available a 30-minute drive away in Soe, the capital of South Central Timor regency.

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Bring books to donate to the library. Good choices include Indonesian literature, illustrated encyclopaedias, illustrated school subject explainers, children story books, graphic memoirs of historical events, and books for learning simple English.

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The current rates for Lakoat.Kujawas' homestay is well below the typical rate for full-board homestays in Indonesia (Rp75,000/US$5.30 per person as of August 2019). We recommend offering an extra fee to cover meals.

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Visit the Pasar Kapan wet market (open on Mondays and Thursdays) to take in the local produce and be sure to shop at a betelnut vendor — such gifts are a welcome gesture for people who are sharing their culture with you.

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If your visit does not coincide with a M’nahat Fe’u Heritage Trail day, you can request a Timorese food workshop or a guided hike to Mount Mutis from Fatumnasi village.

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If you are a creative professional or researcher working in literature, journalism, photography, film, performing arts, visual arts, design, fashion, architecture, food activism, culinary arts, the zero-waste lifestyle, or disability issues, ask about a doing a residency with Lakoat.Kujawas and share your knowledge.

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On certain occasions, Timorese tenun sarongs are required as part of the dress code. Shop for a local sarong in advance, or accept a loan when offered. In the case of the latter, it would be nice to return the sarong with a small gift from your hometown.

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Running water does not happen every day in Mollo. Use the water provided for you sparingly.

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THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE

When you book a tour with Lakoat.Kujawas or shop via its social media accounts, you help to fund local children’s educational programmes like the To The Lighthouse writing club, photography exhibitions, and performing arts productions — activities that are otherwise scarce in rural Timor.

Revenues from the Lakoat.Kujawas tours, artisan food production, and tenun partnerships fund the Lakoat.Kujawas cooperative, which is a source of income for adult members. 

The cooperative is designing a collective savings programme for  Lakoat.Kujawas families.

Meet Dicky of Lakoat.Kujawas

Lakoat.Kujawas is a West Timorese literacy and archive centre that runs a monthly M’nahat Fe’u  Heritage Trail (January to August) introducing travellers to the landscapes and food heritage of the North Mollo highlands. 

The Heritage Trail trips are day trips, but an on-site homestay can be arranged for a small fee.

When the Heritage Trail is on hiatus, Lakoat.Kujawas hosts residency programmes for creative professionals and Timorese food workshops for travellers. 

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Lakoat.Kujawas rekindles knowledge of Timor’s Mollo highlands through creative arts and food.
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Getting there
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Taiftob is a four-hour drive from Kupang, the largest city in West Timor and capital of NTT province. 

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Kupang’s El Tari International Airport has domestic flights from Jakarta, Surabaya and Denpasar (Bali), and international flights from Dili (Timor Leste). 

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Lakoat.Kujawas member Hendrik Tamelab drives a seven-seater car available for private charter, or as a shared shuttle — fares are usually not included in tour packages. Enquire with Lakoat.Kujawas.

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All Soul and Spice: The Call of Kupang, Indonesia

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Cafe Inklusi is a cafe and coffee house in Kupang which serves up authentic local food and coffee, prepared for by talented deaf cooks and barista.

By dining at Cafe Inklusi you support the professional development of staff members, as well as Kopi Saa’s outreach programmes which support other marginalised communities.

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In Indonesia’s Kupang, Cafe Inklusi is part of a gastronomical and societal revolution - serving traditional cuisine made by the deaf.
Barista Tanel Loa and cook An Mone sign Inklusi (inclusive) in the BISINDO sign language.
All Soul and Spice: The Call of Kupang, Indonesia
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Gettting There
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View CafeIn 1 (Dekranasda) location

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View CafeIn 2 (LLBK/Tedis) location

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Flights into Kupang’s El Tari International Airport are available from Jakarta, Surabaya, Denpasar (Bali), Labuan Bajo (Flores/Komodo) and Dili (Timor Leste).

Both locations of Cafe Inklusi are easy to reach from most accommodations in Kupang City. The easiest way to reach either cafe is by ordering an online taxi service.

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Travellers' Notes
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Dining at CafeIn

Head Chef Sischa or Head Barista Kichi are likely your go-to contact person for communications in English. Both women moonlight at CafeIn on evenings and Saturdays, while working their own day jobs in Kupang-based NGOs

Even if you don’t know BISINDO, CafeIn’s deaf staff appreciate visitors who make the effort to introduce themselves in fingerspelling. “Nice to meet you,” “thank you” and “you’re welcome” are all easy and likely among the first signs you would learn.

If you speak Indonesian, communicate with deaf staff in writing or take your mask off and speak slowly using simple words to allow lip reading. 

To ensure that the dishes mentioned in this story are available during your visit, call Sischa to arrange for them in advance.

CafeIn is applying for Halal certification and serves no pork or lard. If you require gluten-free or vegan/vegetarian items, or have certain allergies or sensitivities, notify Sischa in advance to discuss recipe modifications.

CafeIn is closed on Sundays, except for secret menu bookings made in advance. Only Sischa and Kichi will be present for Sunday bookings.

With prior arrangements, CafeIn is available to cater for on-site events or ones in Kupang City. 

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Exploring Kupang

Once you’ve had your fill of great food at Cafe In, you can continue to explore the rest of magical Kupang. Kupang can refer to the metropolitan Kupang City, or the much larger rural Kupang Regency, which comprises nearly 20 per cent  of Timor Island west of the Noelmina River, as well as Semau Island.

Kupang’s Old City waterfront is popularly known as Tedis Beach, but its proper name is Lahi Lai Bissi Kopan (LLBK), which means “the place from which Kupang originated” in the Helong language. Famous landmarks in LLBK include Fort Concordia and its lighthouse, which are situated where the Dendeng River meets Kupang Bay. 

Today LLBK is known for its vibrant local nightlife, with many bars, cafes and hawker’s stalls in the vicinity. CafeIn 2 is situated in the LLBK/Old City district, about a three minute walk from the Tedis waterfront.

Greater Kupang is home to seven indigenous clan kingdoms:  Amabi, Amabi-Oefeto, Babau, Funay, Helong, Lesser Sonbai and Taebenu. They united as one Kupang Kingdom in 1917 as West Timor transitioned from Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie or VOC to Dutch East Indies rule. Kichi’s se’i infused cocktail Royal 1917 is an homage to this historical event.

Kupang’s Old City is the Helong homeland, but most Helong migrated to Semau island in the 18th century to flee from the Penfui War. Kupang is also home to sizable Rotinese and Savunese diaspora communities. These ethnic groups are portrayed on the murals in the LLBK Old City district.

Indonesian is spoken by almost everybody in Kupang City, but the colloquial lingua franca is “Bahasa Kupang” (Timorese Malay),  an abbreviated Malay-based creole influenced by local languages such as Helong, Dawan and Rotinese. Timorese Malay speakers find it mutually intelligible with standard Indonesian, but many Indonesian speakers unfamiliar with Timorese Malay don’t think so. English is widely spoken in hotels and workplaces, but not necessarily by taxi drivers, shopkeepers or restaurant staff.

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Getting some Se’i

CafeIn does not make their own se’i, but Google Maps lists about a dozen smokehouses in Kupang City that do. CafeIn sources beef se’i from Se’i Opa Rote in Jalan Timor Raya and tuna se’i from an unlisted Se’i Ikan Sisuka. Se’i Baun, also listed as Se’i Babi Baun Om Bai,  is located in Tunbaun village in Kupang Regency, about an hour’s drive from Kupang City. Many drivers know its location.

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Places to stay and shop

Kupang City  offers plenty of options for accommodation. Seaview hotels are available along  Jalan Timor Raya, the north coast main road facing Kupang Bay, at price ranges between IDR400,000 — Rp800,000 (USD28-55) per night. Cheaper accommodation is available inland.

The Dekranasda building, where CafeIn 1 is situated, is a good place to shop for Timorese and other artisan products from all over NTT province, including handicrafts, snacks, coffee and essential oil. Upstairs of CafeIn Dekranasda there is an ikat showroom with live demonstrations on weekdays.