Stepping Stone is an arts-and-crafts and baking workshop and that employs adults with disabilities. Discarded or used materials are repurposed into lifestyle items: think homemade soap from used cooking oil, table runners made from magnetic tape from cassettes. Proceeds go back towards the artisans. The centre also welcomes volunteers and artists-in-residence to lend a hand.
Stepping Stone Work Centre is an arts-and-crafts and baking workshop that employs adults with disabilities. Discarded or used materials are repurposed into lifestyle items: think homemade soap from used cooking oil, table runners made from magnetic tape from cassettes. Proceeds go back towards the artisans. The centre also welcomes volunteers and artists-in-residence to lend a hand.
In Penang, tradition and heritage thrive — right alongside a lively contemporary arts scene and design culture. Thanks to the efforts of dedicated locals, George Town’s shophouse-lined streets have been lovingly preserved and form a treasure trove of Peranakan, colonial and religious architectural gems, around which a culinary and arts scene has flourished.
But Penang, or Pulau Pinang to be exact, is more than just George Town; the laidback, rustic charms of Balik Pulau reveal a gentler side of the state capital, where countryside meets nature.
Millions visit Penang every year, but few venture off the beaten path. Try it, and be won over by both sides of the island’s magic.
Friday
Ren i Tang, Cheong Fatt Tze Blue Mansion, Clan Jetties, China House
Saturday
George Town's street murals and heritage tradesmen, 41 Living Story, Hin Bus Depot, The Habitat Penang Hill
Sunday
Green Acres Orchard and Ecolodge, Kim Laksa, Stepping Stone Work Centre, Lost Paradise Resort
Check into your hotel, ideally located somewhere in Georgetown, where you’ll be close to most of the historical hotspots and heritage landmarks. Of the many stylish boutique hotels that grace Penang’s atmospheric streets, our favourite is Ren i Tang, a former derelict 19th century Chinese medical hall restored into an intimate boutique hotel by a pair of sustainability-minded friends, Eu Yeok Siew and Low Teng Lei.
Ren i Tang’s romantic history echoes through its wooden louvre windows, narrow staircases, soaring ceilings and dark wood furniture. Little touches provide a window into the building’s past: the original airwell, a traditional basket pulley system to transport your luggage, and a museum that displays relics that were rescued and cleaned by the owners. Thanks to its prime location in Little India, the hotel has shops selling Indian snacks and saris at its doorstep, which means you’ll never be bored or hungry.
Curious how Penang got its start in heritage conservation? Hail a Grab and get your answer at Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Blue Mansion, the magnificent former home of a Hakka magnate and the earliest example of heritage conservation in Penang. Rescued by concerned conservationists from imminent development that would have resulted in its certain demolition, its sensitive restoration led to being awarded as a UNESCO Heritage building, and more importantly, kick-started public awareness about the value in heritage conservation. Trivia: You may recognize the courtyard as the location for the pivotal mahjong scene in hit movie Crazy Rich Asians.
By now, the temperature would have cooled. Hop on a trishaw and head for the port to catch the sunset. It’s a fun way to see the city without breaking a sweat, plus you’ll support a fading industry – reportedly less than 80 of these vehicles survive in Penang.
As you go past the Straits of Malacca, admire the impressive Penang bridge. Stop at the Clan Jetties, a waterfront village of houses on stilts belonging to various Chinese clans, many of them over a century old. Similar jetties were demolished by property developers, but the remaining ones have survived thanks to interest from tourists. The Chew Jetty is the most tourist-friendly with the longest walkway, pop-up stalls and a floating temple. But note that the jetties are still homes, so respect the residents’ privacy.
Dinner is just a short walk across the road to Weld Quay Village Coffee Shop, a culinary institution famous for cheap and tasty seafood. Save room for dessert; scoot over to China House, whose legendary cake spread features up to an eye-popping 50 varieties at any time. Spread over three shophouses, the space also doubles up as a creative hub, with regular poetry slams, author talks, and art exhibitions. Check out Art Lane, its latest initiative a few doors away — the entire interior of a building has been turned into a canvas for budding artists.
At a compact 2.5 sq km, and packed with narrow, bustling streets littered with picturesque shopfronts, George Town is perfect for exploring on foot.
An easier option for your feet is Linkbike, a bike-sharing programme which lets you get around with ease while keeping your carbon footprint light. See all the stations on this map.
Head for Armenian Street, where a staggering number of historic buildings, stately temples, galleries and shophouses congregate. A must-see is Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, noted for its remarkable architecture and opulent temple, and Sun Yat Sen’s former Penang base.
The tourism boom has had its downsides: long-time residents who can no longer afford the rising rents have been driven out, chipping away the social character that made George Town unique. Take the time to appreciate some of the remaining traditional crafts that make up Penang’s heritage — look out for old shops where graying artisans make signboards, handmade shoes, anchors and rattan furniture.
Next to Kuan Yin temple, 91-year-old Lee Beng Chuan takes pride in teaching visitors the art of making joss sticks. In Little India, Kedai Songkok OSM Mohd Shariff is the only place left in Penang to find handmade songkoks, which are Muslim headgear.
Penang’s famed street art is unmissable as you wander through George Town. The colourful murals had their beginnings in 2009, through Marking George Town, a government-run competition that saw 52 steel rod sculptures depicting local customs and heritage installed on various historic streets. In 2012, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic was commissioned by the George Town Festival to do a series of public paintings – and the rest is history. Ask your hotel for a street art map to see them all.
If you’re in the mood for something quirky, visit one of the many offbeat museums that have sprung up in Penang. If you only have time for one, head for Wonderfood Museum, which celebrates Penang’s food culture with hyper-realistic replicas of Malaysian dishes. Gimmicky but fun, you'll have a ball posing with massive models of cendol, laksa, curry mee, char kuey teow, and ais kacang. There’s also an educational side that shows how some dining choices can harm the environment – such as a wedding banquet table scattered with models of bloodied sharks to highlight the cruel process of producing shark’s fin soup.
Feel like shopping instead? Consider Jonathan Yun’s exquisite sculptural Peranakan jewellery, or 41 Living Story, a souvenir shop that carries products made by Stepping Stone Work Centre, an organisation that employs people with special needs. Book-lovers will love Gerakbudaya, an independent bookshop with an excellent selection of titles by South East Asian authors.
You can’t claim to have visited Penang without eating at Joo Hooi Café, Penang’s most popular kopitiam for Chinese street food classics. While queuing for your laksa/cendol/char kuay teow/ lobak, look up at KOMTAR, the island’s tallest landmark — and interestingly, the only building visible from any point in George Town.
Longing for somewhere less crowded? Make your way to Hin Bus Depot. Its founders turned an abandoned a 60,000 sq ft old bus depot into an open-air arts hub where cafes, artist studios, and an art gallery co-exist with the original coffee shop, hardware shop and motorcycle repair shop. Check their calendar for exhibitions and pop-up markets. The in-house vegan café, Wholey Wonder, is opened by a couple who wanted to debunk the misconception that vegan food is boring – think scrumptious chickpea-crust pizza and almond-and-date-based “Snickers”.
Penang is not all food, murals and architecture porn. Just 20 minutes’ drive from George Town is Penang Hill, a former colonial hill station turned recreational hub. Pro tip: once you get off the funicular that stops at the main recreational area, avoid the crowds and head straight to The Habitat, an eco-tourism attraction on the fringe of a 130 million-year-old forest reserve.
Opened in 2017, The Habitat offers fun experiences designed to promote awareness of and preserve rainforest biodiversity. There’s a well-crafted 1.6-km nature trail that serves as an outdoor classroom of indigenous flora and fauna; a vertigo-inducing tree-top walk that requires you to brave a lot of stairs, but rewards you with thrilling 360-degree views all the way to Langkawi island; a canopy walk that puts you so close to the giant trees, you can almost touch them. Those seeking a rush can jump on the 700m zipline that whizzes you across the valley into the rainforest and back again.
You can’t come to nasi kandar country without eating this iconic Indian-Muslim rice and curry dish at least once. Crowd favourites Hameediyah and Line Clear are always good bets. Make sure you ask for “nasi banjir” i.e. drown your rice with gravy.
Spend the day exploring Penang’s idyllic southwest known as Balik Pulau, literally “back of the island”. A world away from George Town, the landscape is dotted with paddy fields, fruit orchards and fishing villages. The area is best explored by hiring a taxi for the day, as the roads there are winding and ride-hailing can be spotty.
First, have a lie-in and enjoy breakfast at Ren I Tang. As a way of working with the community, the hotel buys vegetarian food from the neighbourhood coffee shops.
Many of the orchards in Balik Pulau offer farm tours, but these can be very popular, so book ahead. Our vote goes to Green Acres Orchard and Ecolodge, where you can sample one of Penang’s most famous exports: durian. Run by a passionate couple who hope to encourage more young people to take up farming, the 16-acre farm offers you the chance to explore its over 450 matured durian and fruit trees, and spice plants, all cultivated sustainably. Enchanted by its idyllic setting? You can book a stay in one of their three beautiful eco-lodges (among them a treehouse!) that were built using materials reassembled from old kampong houses.
Have a late lunch of assam laksa, reputedly the island’s best, at Kim Laksa in the town centre.
On your way out, do some ethical shopping at Stepping Stone Work Centre, an arts-and-crafts centre that provides on-the-job training for adults with special needs. You can buy stunning bags and pouches, eclectic totes, table runners, soaps and artworks that are repurposed from recycled materials. Look out for workshops to pick up from craft skills of your own; conversely, ask about becoming a live-in artist-in-residence to guide the staff.
If you’re in the mood, head northward to Tropical Spice Garden, an award-winning eco-destination with over 500 varieties of exotic fauna and flora. It’s a good spot to sign up for a local cooking course, during which spices from the surrounding garden are used.
For dinner, head to Andrew’s Kampung, in Batu Ferringhi, once rated Penang’s No 1 restaurant in Penang by Tripadvisor, for a quintessential Malaysian dinner.
It’s been a super productive weekend. You’ve earned the right to drop off your bags and relax your feet at Lost Paradise Resort, an eclectic seafront resort that supports an inclusive school for students with special needs and a free clinic for children. As you take comfort in the knowledge that your money is going to a good cause, it’s probably dawning on you by now that people – and their good intentions — are at the heart of this island’s charm.
Visit Green Acres Orchard and Ecolodge
A treehouse getaway...on a durian farm? Fear not, you don’t have to love the stinky, divisive fruit to fall in love with the lush, eco-conscious surroundings of Green Acres Orchard and Ecolodge. This 16-acre orchard will show you why a sustainable life is a good life.
MEET THE CHONGS
With their galoshes, wide-brimmed farmer's hats, and glowing, tanned skin, Eric and Kim Chong are unlikely to be mistaken for corporate shills.
But the cushy office life was what this couple left behind, when they returned to their hometown of Penang in search of a more environmentally-conscious future for their son.
"We wanted [our son] Aldric to grow up in a place where he could run around in the great outdoors,” says Kim.
The answer came in the form of the stinky, spiky “king of fruits” — durians. A 16-acre orchard in Penang, to be exact, painstakingly cultivated by the Chongs into Green Acres Orchard and Ecolodge, a haven for durians to thrive as nature intended.
MORE THAN JUST A DURIAN FARM
Balik Pulau, literally “back of the island” in Bahasa Melayu, is Penang’s rural side, famed for cultivating different varieties of durian.
In an area chock-a-block with durian farms offering guided tours, durian parties and homestays, Green Acres has quietly emerged as a preferred destination for durian lovers looking for an escape from the crowd.
Eric and Kim keep visiting groups small because they want to keep things personal as they share their knowledge and experience in organic fruit farming, composting, building sustainable homes, and the heritage of Balik Pulau orchards.
Exploring the farm in their company, the Chongs' passion is palpable, and it’s not hard to see why. Many of their durian trees, inherited from the previous owner when they took over in 2009, are over 50 years old, and still productive.
For each tasting session, the Chongs pick durians on the morning of each group’s arrival to ensure they get the freshest fruits.
Don't worry if you're not a durian lover; there are plenty of other tropical fruits to sample — rambutans, cempedak, pineapples, and bananas, to name a few — as well as rare herbs and spices that many urbanites may have never seen.
Moreover, a stay at the farm’s eco-lodges is, despite the durian’s pungent reputation, a relief for the senses. Breezes roll in from the forest across gleaming wood floors and all is quiet, save for the soft thump of durians hitting the ground, ready for harvesting.
Guests can also relax in a pool that draws its water from a spring, and dine on the freshly-laid eggs of 70 chickens and ducks, which roam in a 10,000 sq ft coop, and supply, ahem, fertiliser for the trees.
"Here, the air is cleaned by the leaves. The water is filtered by the sand...We had a medical check-up recently and the doctor said, ‘Whatever you're doing, keep doing it!’"
Eric Chong
Co-founder, Green Acres
GREEN DREAMS
Staunch advocates of the slow food movement, Eric and Kim went on a three-year search before they found their hidden gem at 250m above sea level — ideal for growing durian trees, and accessible only via a steep, gravelly road punctuated by hairpin turns.
The farm already boasted a whopping 450-plus trees from 35 cultivars. More importantly, it had been chemical-free for three generations.
In the Chongs, they found the perfect torchbearers to carry on their all-natural legacy. No gentlemen farmers, the couple threw themselves into nursing the land back to health — the previous owners, then in their 80s, had been unable to keep the farm as productive as it could have been.
"In the early days, we had to put one bag of organic fertiliser next to each tree. Imagine doing this for 500 trees,” says Eric.
On any given day, there were fruits to be wrapped, heavy equipment to be carried, trees and animals to feed. Slowly but surely, the Chongs began to notice changes. "Our caretaker, who is from the original owner's family, told us the trees haven't been this healthy for years. During one bumper year, we harvested over 500 durians a day!" Kim shares elatedly.
A CUT ABOVE THE REST
Anchored to the forest floor by an 80-year-old durian tree, the Musang Loft Treehouse is one of the Chongs’ most striking additions to the property.
For one, there are no walls between your bed and the trees around you — just wooden railings and bamboo screens that can be unrolled for privacy.
Standing in the treehouse, the wow effect is almost enough to make you forget the durian party you probably just had. Almost.
To minimise environmental impact, solar panels are used to generate electricity. The water pump relies on kinetic energy, instead of electricity, to pump fresh spring water uphill from the foot of the farm.
For raw material, abandoned old kampong (Bahasa Melayu for “village”) houses were disassembled, transported to their current location plank by plank, and repurposed into the lodges.
Opening their orchard to strangers was not part of the initial plan. "Green Acres was intended to be a holiday home for us and we built the lodge as a resting place after working the farm," says Kim.
They made the foray into hospitality when they realised it could be a viable stream of income during the months when durians aren’t in season.
"Durian season is only about three months a year. There's little income for the rest of the year. That's why a lot of farmers have quit. We thought, what if you could create a business model that brings in additional revenue? Maybe we could get young people who have traditionally shunned farming to reconsider farming as a profitable vocation," says Eric.
Anyone unconvinced need only look at the Chongs’ glowing good health for proof. "Here, the air is cleaned by the leaves. The water is filtered by the sand. So now we only need to worry about the food we eat," says Eric. "We had a medical check-up recently and the doctor said, ‘Whatever you're doing, keep doing it!’"
Visit Lost Paradise
An eclectic and eccentric home away from home, Lost Paradise Resort offers an escape from the bustle of downtown Penang. But what makes this resort extraordinary is that owners Dr Chew Yu Gee and Melody Chew run an inclusive school right in the middle of it, where children with special needs learn alongside their mainstream peers.
MEET THE CHEWS
Their love is palpable. Not just for each other, their children and grandchildren, and long-time friends who work at Lost Paradise. But also for the people they help in their community. From the less fortunate to the marginalised, the young and the elderly.
A shared passion for making a difference, among other reasons, has united them for more than 30 years. And it is clear they are a match made in heaven — they finish one another’s sentences and tease each other with ease and charm. More significantly, they support one another unquestionably: Melody with her school, Dr Chew with the resort and his medical practice.
Together, they have nurtured a partnership doing good, at home and at work — a fine line, in this couple’s case.
ECLECTIC STYLE, WITH HEART
If it feels like you are experiencing a psychedelic epiphany when you arrive at the resort, do not panic. Lost Paradise is a rainbow-draped sensory overload; a long-lost, Southeast Asian cousin of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. Without the candy.
You might spy influences from Minangkabau and Balinese architecture; an enthusiastic flourish of batik furnishings; technicolour wallpaper, tiles and flowerpots; heavy, Majapahit-period wood furniture; intricately carved doors shipped in from Bali; collectors’ pieces from India and China; and art made from recycled materials.
After giving your senses time to acclimatise to the explosion of colour and the hodgepodge of designs from various cultures, you will likely be in the right frame of mind to appreciate how idyllic Lost Paradise is.
The Chews built the seafront property as a home for their family of five children, who have since left the roost. The confluence of colour, textures, materials and cultures reflects Dr Chew’s effervescent personality.
“Most people cannot understand the theme. It doesn’t fit a pattern, but it’s very interesting.”
Dr Chew Yu Gee Co-founder, Lost Paradise Resort
“A piece of art is appreciated in its own way by a person. To somebody it’s horrible, but hey, it looks good to me,” he explains, with a laugh.
THE “RELUCTANT” HOTEL
Dr Chew calls the resort a“reluctant hotel”. Their home was never meant to welcome strangers to enjoy its peaceful grounds and unobstructed views of the Malacca Strait.
But health issues forced Dr Chew to find another source of income, besides his medical practice. This was so Melody and he could continue to fund the school, Lighthouse Academy, in the resort.
They opened their doors to paying guests in 2014.
“We didn’t have to stay in such a big place, we could rent (the house) out, and it could be sustainable. So we vacated our house,” explains Dr Chew. “We stayed above the school. It was noisy, we didn’t have any privacy, but it was okay. The hotel took off.
“I know now if anything happened to me, it can support the school.”
A SPECIAL SCHOOL, FOR SPECIAL STUDENTS
It’s 8.30am, and the resort’s quiet is broken by the squeals and laughter of the Academy’s pupils splashing in the pool.
For those who baulk at the idea of sharing a holiday with excitable children for about 30 minutes every weekday morning, the Chews suggest choosing another hotel. Mind you, they are not being rude, just honest, as you will not find a couple with bigger hearts this side of Batu Ferringhi.
Says Dr Chew, “To us it’s happy laughter, but for the rare few, who don’t like it, we have refunded their money.”
If you like the notion of contributing to the education of children with learning and developmental challenges, and from marginalised communities, then consider unpacking your suitcases and unwinding at Lost Paradise.
Melody, a former teacher from Singapore, says some guests, who warmed to the idea of the school, have even helped out in classes.
Dr Chew also operates a free children’s clinic in his home, for patients who mostly come from less fortunate backgrounds - often the children of fishermen from Batu Ferringhi and nearby suburb, Telok Bahang.
FINDING PARADISE
Still, you’re at Lost Paradise to relax and put your feet up. And there are plenty of ways to do this.
Beautiful landscaping, including a wide variety of flora and fauna, a particular source of pride for Dr Chew, creates a perfect setting for this to happen.
The rooms and suites are spacious, and most have fantastic views. You’ll be sure to sleep like a baby in the comfortable beds. And if you don't mind a few mosquitoes sharing your space, let the sea breeze envelop your room, and awake to the sound of lapping waves.
During the day, spend a leisurely afternoon lazing by the pool. Or reserve a spa treatment in advance, to relieve those tense muscles in the comfort of your room.
For the more active, there are kayaks to take out and other sea activities, such as windsurfing and sailing. Dr Chew says otters sometimes visit at dawn.
A taxi will bring you into the centre of town in 20 to 30 minutes. If you prefer to stay in, you can order delivery, or you could ask to use the kitchen to whip up a meal — one of the perks of being a guest, albeit a paying one, in someone’s home.
Dr Chew says one Dutch couple, who were long-term guests, grew so comfortable they used the main kitchen to cook for staff. “They will help clean the pool, cut the grass. They treated Lost Paradise like their own home.”
A HAPPY HOME IS A HAPPY PLACE
Set against the shifting tones of the open sea, and framed by coconut and palm trees, sand between your toes and tinkling wind chimes, this ‘home away from home’ does have the makings of a lost paradise.
Granted, it might not be to everyone’s taste. But while the characters of this tropical stage keep changing, what remains constant, is the warmth of family and friends from all corners of the world. And that, in this traveller’s books, is paradise.
