Showing 7 of 7 result(s).
Tags
Countries
Story Types

A Weekend of Good in Gopeng, Malaysia

photo
Article contributors
A forgotten place, from a forgotten time, brought to life through community-based tourism. Help revive Gopeng, an old mining town in Malaysia.
A Weekend of Good in Gopeng, Malaysia
A Weekend of Good in Gopeng, Malaysia

Gopeng is quintessentially a Malaysian sleepy hollow. It’s a town that whispers to you, a far cry from the roar it had in the 19th and 20th centuries when it was a tin mining hot spot. Today Gopeng is one of Asia's top adventure destinations. From the heritage of this old mining town, a new haven of eco-tourism and adventure has been unearthed.

DON'T MISS

The town lies two hours away from Kuala Lumpur, and is near Ipoh. As old mining towns go this tranquil one boasts of rivers, caves, and limestone cliffs. 

It was the exact answer for me as I searched for a way to keep the centuries old way of life intact for the locals and the honouring of its history as a mining town.

Friday — Explore Gopeng’s heritage

Soy sauce making process at Hup Teck Soya Sauce Factory. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Soy sauce making process at Hup Teck Soya Sauce Factory. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

History meets craft at Gopeng. First up there is Hup Teck Soya Sauce Factory, one of the last surviving businesses from before the First World War. The secret to its survival lies in a fermentation technique for making soya sauce introduced by the late founder from Guangzhou, China. The heavy earthen pots are used for ageing the bean mixture. According to second-generation owner Low Pak Tong, "The pots absorb heat during the day to allow the fermentation to continue at night and their porous surface allows air circulation which enhances the intensity of the flavour.” These pots are at least a century old.

far fa-clock

11am - History's secret sauce

Locals hanging out at the newspaper stall in Gopeng town centre. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Locals hanging out at the newspaper stall in Gopeng town centre. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

As you enter the heart of Gopeng town where I would highly recommend that you walk… and walk… and walk… and allow the buildings and architecture to introduce themselves to you, one of the first things you’ll see is a roundabout with a Rafflesia emblem - once the site of Gopeng’s historic core. Nearby, a good number of pre-war buildings that survived a great fire in 1886 still exude an old-world grandeur, standing erect. What you see reflected in the original architecture is a legacy of Gopeng’s multi-ethnic settlers. The footprints of these people crisscross the tin mining town of old.

far fa-clock

12pm - Just keep walking

View from the first checkpoint of the Gaharu Tea Valley tour. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

View from the first checkpoint of the Gaharu Tea Valley tour. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

The high fortified wall (dubbed the Mini Great Wall of China) guarding Gaharu Tea Valley - Malaysia’s first and biggest organic plantation for gaharu, the Malay name for agarwood, may seem tacky, but Gopeng’s most-hyped attraction in recent years is quite fun. For just 10 Malaysian Ringgit (USD$2.20), you get to explore the 300-acre property in an air-conditioned van, and find out why gaharu is so highly prized (answer: it’s incredibly difficult to extract), hug a tree, enjoy stunning valley views from the panoramic stage, and sample gaharu ice-cream.

far fa-clock

3pm - The sweetness of Gaharu

Adeline Kuo. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Adeline Kuo. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Gopeng’s eco-tourism status is intact because back-to-nature resorts and “glamping” sites have mushroomed. One of the sharp business investors at the time built the Adeline Villa & Rest House, which is a must-visit accommodation site.

Adeline Villa & Rest House reception area. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Adeline Villa & Rest House reception area. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Set on a hilly terrain surrounded by rainforests, this dual-property, solar-power-fuelled accommodation has bamboo-styled rest houses, upscaled chalets and comfortable dorms to choose from - a far cry from its humble beginnings.

Way back in 2004, single parent and hairdresser Adeline Kuo saw the future of eco-tourism and opened up a barebones campsite as a way to earn a living and better support her children. You can’t help but admire her for her business savviness and grit.

Today, this bubbly lady employs more than 50 workers with some of them from the ‘underserved’ Semai Community who make up one per cent of Malaysia’s population. The Semai people were a formerly nomadic minority indigenous tribe famed for their forestry knowledge. Today they use that knowledge to contribute to eco-tourism and maintain the adventure activities of Gopeng. Adeline’s motto in life is simple, “When you make others happy, you are also happy.”

far fa-clock

5pm - Home in the hills

Breakfast at Adeline’s: Porridge with fried fish, fermented vegetables, braised peanuts, spring onions, anchovies on the side. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Breakfast at Adeline’s: Porridge with fried fish, fermented vegetables, braised peanuts, spring onions, anchovies on the side. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Knock yourself out at dinner with Adeline’s legendary village-style buffet. The ingredients are indigenously sourced. The local specialties include asam laksa, which is rice noodles in a spicy-sour broth, nasi ulam or rice salad, tau fu far  which is soya bean curd, barbeque, kueh (dessert snacks), and a whole lot more. A large gulp of cool mountain air is highly recommended after dinner. And the mountain also serves up some delights for the eye. Brilliant orange striped spiders, baby birds and glow-in-the-dark mushrooms.

far fa-clock

7pm - A meal in the mountain

Saturday — Go deep with sustainable initiativesa

A 10-minute drive on a narrow hillside road will bring you to Kampung Batu, one of five villages that make up Ulu Geroh, otherwise known as Gopeng’s gateway to fertile grounds of the Rafflesia, the world’s biggest flower. While not unique to this area, researchers say Ulu Geroh has the highest concentration of the Rafflesia, which blooms once every nine months and dies mere days later. 

One of many guides available, Bah Insan, is a Semai. Many Semai people resort to becoming tour guides as a way to improve their lives. That way the knowledge they have inherited from their ancestors also lives on.

Rafflesia in bloom. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Rafflesia in bloom. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

To get to the Rafflesia, you will go on a one-hour trek up the Leech Trail (which lives up to its name, so be prepared). The journey can be a little daunting - the trail is one continuous elevation, with some sections at a 45 degree angle - all worth it as you see the Rafflesia in full bloom.

Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing butterfly. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing butterfly. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

From here, you’ll proceed to a nearby site famous for spotting the rare Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing butterfly with metallic-green and black wings. Insan hopes to educate the public about Ulu Geroh’s biodiversity so that his community “can have a stronger voice to oppose activities that harm the forest.” A few years ago, he joined forces with the locals to petition against illegal logging and by winning that battle he has helped keep the forest and its wild inhabitants protected for the next generation.

far fa-clock

8am - Nature in bloom

Lunch being prepared. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Lunch being prepared. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

A scrumptious communal meal that the Semai womenfolk cook up using natural “utensils” like bamboo and firewood is the icing on the cake. Your host probably caught the fish from the nearby river the previous evening and foraged the jungle for ulam or wild ferns, to go with your rice and durian sambal, a pungent fermented condiment you’ll hate or love. Sorry, there really is no middle path with durian.

Lunch being prepared. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Anyam, or traditional weaving by the Semai. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Post-lunch, Insan’s sidekicks will treat you to an indigenous arts and crafts demonstration. Learn about anyam which translates to traditional weaving, as the ladies skilfully entwine coconut leaves into headgear and baskets. Be pleasantly surprised by the humane philosophy behind Semai hunting techniques; the sumpit, a bamboo blowpipe used to catch small animals, delivers instantaneous death, sparing them from prolonged agony.

far fa-clock

1pm - Leaf-ing a good taste

Museum Gopeng facade. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Museum Gopeng facade. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

On the way back, drop by Museum Gopeng, which only opens on weekends. Housed in a wooden building that originally served as the horse stables of tycoon Eu Kong (founder of a traditional Chinese medicine pharmaceutical known as Eu Yan Sang), the volunteer-run museum offers a charming look into Gopeng’s past. Rare photographs tracing Gopeng’s evolution from the 1850s, and vintage memorabilia such as mining equipment, rubber tapping tools and other collectibles all hang proudly. In capturing that part of history Gopeng pays homage to the community that helped make this town a rip roaring mining site.

While admission is free for now, donations for the upkeep of the museum are encouraged. Gopeng had other private museums which shuttered after the pandemic, highlighting the challenge of keeping these community-driven initiatives going.

far fa-clock

3pm - Days of old

Earth Camp jungle lounge. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Earth Camp jungle lounge. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Dinner and a night at Earth Camp is a must-do. This is a campsite and headquarters for outdoor adventure company Nomad Adventure. Located next to the scenic Kampar River, your commune with nature with the bare minimum. Fans and mosquito nets are all you will need - trust me that is more than enough. Designed with green building principles in mind, all the buildings have passive cooling systems, UV-resistant water tanks that are repurposed into low-carbon footprint toilets, and the attractive jungle lounge is made from recovered wood from 100- year-old shophouses. 

Nomad’s founder Chan Yuen-Li is the stuff of legends. She has been an outdoor lover whose past lives include stints as an award-winning environment journalist and competitive adventure racer, she captained the first Malaysian team to complete the Eco Challenge Morocco 1998, a multisport ten-day adventure that involved riding camels, kayaking and snow expeditions, among other things. 

More importantly, she established Gopeng as one of Asia’s top adventure destinations. She recruited her team by literally showing the locals photos of the sport, and asking, “Who can swim and wants to be a rafting guide?” 

These days, the company employs more than 50 people including part-timers, mostly locals from neighbouring villages. 

Nomad also invests significant resources into environmental education programmes and activities that benefit the community, such as clean-ups of illegal rubbish dumps, since Gopeng, like many small towns in Malaysia, still has no rubbish collection service.

far fa-clock

5pm - Setting up camp

Sunday — End on high adventure

Student Imran (left) and instructor Rafizi (right) at Nomad Adventure. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Student Imran (left) and instructor Rafizi (right) at Nomad Adventure. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

For your last day in Gopeng, it's a full-throttle adrenalin-pumping adventure ahead. White-water rafting is Nomad’s best seller. With 22 rapids, Kampar River offers everything from gentle flat-water rafting for the beginner, to tackling larger rapids for intermediate participants. Also popular: the unique ropes course at their Mountain School. 

Nestled in a scenic forested plot of land that’s partly surrounded by a limestone outcrop - with its own private cave - the “school” is really an adventure park that lets you choose from five high-ropes courses of varying levels of difficulty. Fun fact: when building the site, care was taken to ensure the original state was preserved - the durian trees with high-rise jumping-off platforms have been there since day one.

Durian trees at Nomad Adventure’s Mountain School are used for the outdoor learning courses. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Durian trees at Nomad Adventure’s Mountain School are used for the outdoor learning courses. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

As you test your balance on treetop suspension bridges, climb wobbly rope ladders, and glide across ziplines over limestone pinnacles and lush rainforest below, you will learn about and even surprise yourself. “Our mission is to provide an environment for participants to interact with nature through outdoor learning experiences,” says Yuen-Li. “Nature is our greatest teacher - a place to explore potential and discover purpose.”

I started out saying that Gopeng whispers to you. That’s how instincts also work for most of us – they come as whispers initially. You may wonder then what my travel tip is to you? I say, “Listen to your whispers. Trust your whispers. They rarely let you down.”

far fa-clock

9am - Adrenaline anytime

A Weekend of Good in Ho Chi Minh City

photo
Article contributors
In the cultural heart of Vietnam, a wealth of experiences await curious visitors. We share the best historic spots and future-driven flavours to spend 48 hours.
A Weekend of Good in Ho Chi Minh City
A Weekend of Good in Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), locally referred to by its old name Saigon, is one of Asia’s most fascinating cities. Home to about 9 million people, the bustling metropolis in Vietnam’s south is a colourful juxtaposition of old and new with east and west.

DON’T MISS

The city’s rich imperial and colonial past can be found in its architecture, ubiquitous street coffee culture and hole-in-the-wall eateries serving up some of the most delicious and affordable local and international cuisine in the region 

But Saigon is more than its colourful past. Rapid development has brought with it skyscrapers, modernised public transport — rent a public bicycle, take the water bus or even hop on the upcoming metro line — and a lively arts and events scene.

Friday —Explore the old and new

Set out for District 1 (D1), the city centre and default starting point for most travellers to Saigon. If you’d like to base yourself here, look out for Caravelle Saigon, a city icon. Built in 1959, it was one of the country’s icons of modernity, and it is currently only one of two EarthCheck-certified hotels in the whole country. 

D1 is home to many of the city’s colonial-era monuments, including the Saigon Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral. Both are located within walking distance from each other, and a stone’s throw away from shopping malls, streetside coffee shops, and markets selling assorted goods in all colours and tastes — a contrast of old and new that will be a recurring theme throughout your trip. 

If you are feeling energised, it’s possible to cover most of D1 within a day with TNGO’s Public Bicycle System app, allowing you to seamlessly navigate the city’s many alleys – some hidden – exhaust-free.

Some of Saigon’s more iconic restaurants and cafes can be found in D1, alongside popular family establishments and street vendors. If you’re not ready to take the plunge into Vietnamese street cuisine, head to Blanc. Restaurant for lunch. 

The restaurant serves a fusion of cuisines in a modern setting — think duck breast served with butternut squash puree, Vietnamese basil, starfruit, bamboo shoots and ginger fish sauce. With a few set menus to choose from, helpful staff are on hand to help you make a decision. 

And you may notice the menus come with illustrations featuring Ho Chi Minh City sign language (one of three Vietnamese sign languages) for each dish — which you are encouraged to use instead of speaking. Blanc. Restaurant employs staff who have hearing disabilities. According to the restaurant, about 65 to 70 per cent of deaf and hearing-impaired people in Vietnam are unemployed, and the restaurant was opened to give people with hearing disabilities a chance to earn a living. 

far fa-clock

1pm - Start at the centre

Make your way to District 10 (D10), a short ride away from D1. On your way, notice the colonial buildings and wandering tourists giving way to a vibrant residential district filled with rows of traditional shophouses, juxtaposed with modern malls and office buildings. D10 is one of those districts where the main roads lead to smaller roads that hide alleys that lead to even more alleys, each with their own little secrets.

Nestled along a single-lane road is the Fito Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine. Founded by Dr Le Khac Tam in 2003, the private museum showcases the evolution of Vietnam’s traditional medicine, a part of its heritage that dates back thousands of years. The museum’s architecture reflects the styles of some of the ethnic minority groups in Vietnam like the Chams, including a Champa temple on the fifth floor. You can also find original traditional instruments and other prehistoric artefacts, including some from the Stone Age.

far fa-clock

3pm - Explore history and tradition

For dinner, head back to D1 and make for Organik Kitchen Saigon. In true east-meets-west style, your first dinner in Saigon could be a falafel pita sandwich, a bacon salad, or even an Italian margherita pizza, all under USD$6-$7. Besides their plant-based offerings, what’s even more memorable about this vegan establishment is the revolving door of live music performances, stand-up comedy shows, art exhibitions and charity fundraisers within its premises, which it shares with Indika Saigon, an indie bar and events space. Enjoy a house made tropical rum punch as you soak in your first night in Saigon.

far fa-clock

6pm - Enjoy an evening of fusion

Saturday — The city within a city

Ready for a break from the chaotic energy of Saigon? 

Dong Nai Province, home to Cat Tien National Park (Vườn Quốc Gia Cát Tiên), is an ideal escape into nature. The national park is about 150km from Saigon’s D1, a five-hour bus ride away. 

At 738sqkm, Cat Tien National Park is about the size of Singapore, and home to Ta Lai village where the Ma, Tay and Stieng ethnic communities live. Primates like the native golden-cheeked gibbon and pygmy slow loris, as well as sun bears and leopard cats, including a thousand species of birds, can also be found at the national park. Endangered creatures like Asian elephants, Sunda pangolins and the Siamese crocodile can also be spotted. 

In the park, you can visit the Cat Tien Bear and Wildlife Rescue Station, Bau Sau Crocodile Lake or go on an Animal Night Safari. Better yet, consider an overnight stay at Ta Lai Longhouse, an initiative by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) to support the Ta Lai communities by developing their capacities to guide travellers on ecotourism activities like trekking, kayaking and fishing. 

These opportunities enable communities to improve their livelihoods and better access essentials like education. Thirty per cent of the bill from your stay is donated to their community development fund which provides job opportunities and supports community projects.

far fa-clock

7am - Venture to the wild side

If you prefer to stay in Saigon, check out Thu Duc City; in 2020, Districts 2 and 9 in Saigon were merged to form Thu Duc, effectively a new city in a city. 

An up-and-coming major economic zone and technology hub in Vietnam, Thu Duc can be reached via the futuristic-looking Thu Thiem 2 bridge. Its glass-walled skyscrapers, al fresco dining establishments serving international cuisine and high-end serviced apartments are a world away from the colonial buildings and shophouses of Saigon. You may even spot a few metro stations — the city’s first metro line, which runs through Thu Duc, is set to open in 2023. 

Saigon Outcast, located just on the edge of the expat enclave of Thao Dien, is an excellent hideout from the concrete modernity of Thu Duc. An authentic and welcoming ambience awaits those seeking a touch of bohemianism with a dash of adventure with a rock-climbing wall greeting you near the entrance. At this alternative events space, don’t miss the Thao Dien Flea Market on Saturdays with pop-up stores by local artists, artisans, and microbusinesses selling their crafts and products. These include colourful cookies from the Little Rose Bakery, an initiative by the Ho Chi Minh City Child Welfare Association to protect and empower underprivileged girls at The Little Rose Warm Shelter.

far fa-clock

11am - Visit the future

A short walk away and you’ll see The Factory, a centre for contemporary arts with a facade made from parts of shipping containers. Opened in 2016 by Vietnamese artist Tia-Thuy Nguyen, The Factory is a social enterprise with workshops, live arts, talks, film screenings, and other initiatives to connect and develop cross-cultural dialogue. The profits from the sale of artworks or products are mainly used to fund the running costs of these programmes.If you’re ready for some shopping, head to boutiques in Thao Dien like Purr Nature where you can find eco-friendly products made by local artisans. These range from handmade face masks to organic honey, and all proceeds go towards operating the Purr Shelter, a home for orphaned and abandoned kittens. You can also look for The Organik House nearby if you’re searching for alternatives to everyday plastic items.

far fa-clock

2pm - Shop social

Make your way back to D1, where the (by now) familiar scents of suon nuong (grilled pork ribs) and nuoc mam (fish sauce) wafting around the streets will remind you that it’s almost time for dinner.

Eating local is part of any quintessential travel experience, but go a step further with Noir. Dining in the Dark, where you dine in darkness to experience the world the way a person with visual disabilities does. 

Run by the same organisation behind Blanc. Restaurant, Noir. Dining in the Dark works closely with the Blind Association Centre in HCMC and other partner organisations supporting people with visual disabilities, providing employment to this community.

The menu, which is also available in braille, comes in three categories: From the East, From the West, and Vegetarian. They all comprise a starter, a main course, and dessert. Through it all, you will be assisted by a food guide, to whom you can explain your dietary restrictions and food preferences, for a custom menu, and a one of a kind sensory experience.

far fa-clock

7pm - Dine in the dark

Sunday — Cooling down

Start your Sunday with breakfast at the Green Bamboo Kitchen, also run by the Ho Chi Minh City Child Welfare Association. 

The Green Bamboo was founded in 1993 as a beacon of hope for hundreds of homeless boys in the city by providing them with opportunities and support to lead them toward a stable life. By rehabilitating the boys’ mental and physical health to reintegrate them into society, they have been able to pursue education and even employment opportunities.

The dishes are typically Vietnamese home-cooked meals within the USD$1-$2 price range. According to head chef Ms Thu, the kitchen’s operations took a hit during the COVID-19 pandemic, and they switched to a delivery-only model. However, she aims to resume dining in by the end of 2022.

far fa-clock

10am - Breakfast that gives back

The city is notorious for its unforgiving heat during the dry season from March to May but luckily, there are many ways to keep yourself hydrated. From streetside sinh to (smoothies) carts, to a vast array of coffeeshops dishing out glasses of ca phe da (Vietnamese iced coffee) and even free water dispensers along the streets – you’ll never go thirsty in Saigon. 

Enjoy a scenic 15-20 minute ride down Hoang Sa street, which flanks the Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe canal, before crossing the bridge towards Phu Nhuan District, another vibrant district popular with young locals due to its numerous secret cafes and juice bars dotting the main commercial street, Phan Xich Long. One such cafe is Fin Saigon, a Vietnamese boutique coffee brand using Robusta beans grown sustainably by farming communities across the country, including the renowned coffee and tea producing regions of Lam Dong and Gia Lai in the central highlands. 

Fin Saigon is located on the ground floor of an apartment building and it is the perfect place to find the ultimate souvenir from Vietnam: grab some  locally-grown Robusta coffee beans and a filter, and make your own ca phe phin (traditional Vietnamese filtered coffee) when you’re home, dreaming of your next trip back.

far fa-clock

1pm - Enjoy the city’s rich cafe culture

A Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur

photo
Article contributors
Malaysia’s capital is as warm-hearted as it is warm. Here's how to spend a weekend there, while doing some good
A Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur
A Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur

Sleek landmarks, delicious hawker fare and shopping malls galore. The bustling city of Kuala Lumpur is where many congregate for a weekend of food and retail therapy.

But Malaysia’s capital is also as warm-hearted as it is warm. Creative, independent businesses and entrepreneurs invite you to immerse yourself in authentic cultural experiences, while making a difference in their own unique way. Take the path less travelled in this tropical metropolis, and you will discover its heart. 

DON'T MISS
FRIDAY – Cultures meet causes
A sustainably stylish boutique hotel

Arrive in Kuala Lumpur and head to Sekeping Tenggiri guesthouse in Bangsar. Tucked behind lush greenery, this rustic property reduces its carbon footprint through natural ventilation, cleverly positioned light shafts and recycled materials. As check-in typically begins at 2pm, drop off your luggage with the housekeeper before heading out to lunch.

Take a 15-min walk to Restoran Sri Nirwana Maju and tuck into (one of) the best banana leaf rice in town. Waiters come round to dish out three types of vegetables, white rice and curry, and you can add on a serving of their crowd-pleasing fried squid or chicken. Top it off with a refreshing cup of mango lassi (yoghurt smoothie) – but don’t be surprised by the absence of a straw. The restaurant recently embarked on a straw-free campaign and also plans to phase out the use of plastic cups.

far fa-clock

12 noon

Explore batik that weaves new livelihoods

After lunch, spend the afternoon immersing yourself in a Malaysian cultural experience: exercise your creativity at a batik-making workshop, or take a heritage walk to discover Brickfields known as KL’s Little India. 

For the former, take a 15-minute  taxi ride (we recommend ride sharing apps like Grab) to Batik Boutique in the Sri Hartamas area, to learn the intricacies of Batik dyeing. The class begins with a brief history of the wax-resist dye tradition, followed by an introduction to different techniques such as block printing and “canting” (drawing with a pen-like tool). 

As you work your artistic vision onto fabric, you’re also supporting a good cause: Batik Boutique trains and hires women from low-income backgrounds as seamstresses to produce their range of clothing, accessories and homeware. Check out their boutique and pick up some stylish souvenirs that support their cause. 

Batik not your cup of tea? Take a walk through Brickfields, KL’s “Little India” that’s also home to diverse places of worship that capture Malaysia’s multicultural and multireligious heritage. 

Start at the 114-year-old heritage site Vivekananda Ashrama, built in 1904 to commemorate the prominent Indian Hindu monk Swami Vivekananda.

After exploring the grounds, exit and turn left onto Jalan Tun Sambanthan. A large colourful fountain and a sandstone archway (the Torana Gate, a gift to Malaysia from the Government of India) mark the start of Little India’s main street. Switch on your senses and explore away: feast your eyes on the rainbow of sarees, sniff the myriad spices, fruits and flower garlands, and groove to Bollywood beats blasting from shophouse speakers. Take a pit stop at Restoran Chat Masala and order a teh ais tarik (iced pulled tea) to cool down. 

Cross the street onto Jalan Sultan Abdul Samad and spot the Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady of Fatima. Walk on for 300m and turn right onto Jalan Berhala, where you’ll find Maha Vihara, a Sinhalese-Buddhist temple that dates back to 1895. Retrace your steps to Jalan Sultan Abdul Samad – just down the road is Zion Cathedral, a Lutheran church founded in 1924.

Walk on for 300m and turn left towards Jalan Thambipillay to soothe your tired feet at PB Blind Massage. Paralympian Lee Seng Chow started this traditional Chinese massage centre, which is staffed by professionally-trained visually impaired therapists.

At the end of the street, be prepared to queue for the city’s most popular banana fritters at the roadside stall Brickfields Pisang Goreng (across from YMCA). Enjoy your piping hot snack as you stroll for 500m (head right on Jalan Tun Sambanthan before turning left onto Jalan Tebing) towards the 116-year old Hindu Sri Kwandasamy Temple. Wrap up your urban hike with a drink at De’Divine café, located just across the temple. The cafe trains and employs underprivileged youth and school dropouts, so you can enjoy a chendol smoothie whilst supporting a worthy cause. 

far fa-clock

2pm

Meals that rebuild refugee lives

After a full afternoon out and about, head back to Sekeping Tenggiri to check in and freshen up before dinner.

A unique dining experience awaits you at PichaEats’ Open House. Step into a refugee family’s home and get a taste of their food and culture. Over a spread of traditional dishes, you’ll hear first-hand stories that provide a glimpse into life as a refugee in Malaysia. 

These families come from various communities: Afghan, Burmese (Chin), Burmese (Rohingya), Iraqi, Palestinian and Syrian. Through offering catering services and Open Houses, PichaEats provides the refugees with a source of income and allows visitors to gain insight into their unique cultures.

Alternatively, head over to Charlie’s Café – a popular neighbourhood joint that serves Malaysian favourites and hearty Western fare. This cosy café in Taman Desa doesn’t only satisfy diners with tasty Sarawak laksa and fried chicken chop. It allows them to play a part in feeding the homeless through “pay-it-forward” meal vouchers. Every RM5 (US$1.20) voucher buys a catered-and-delivered meal for someone in need. In addition, owner Desonny Tuzan supports the livelihood of indigenous Hulu Langat farmers by sourcing agricultural produce from them.

far fa-clock

6pm

SATURDAY
Cycle to see Kuala Lumpur's hidden gems

Start your day bright and early by exploring the heart of the city the eco-friendly way — on two wheels with Bike with Elena. Bike down discreet alleyways as guide Elena Mei Yun weaves a fascinating tapestry of the history and culture of KL. The tour passes the city’s landmarks — Merdeka SquareSultan Abdul Samad Building, Jamek Mosque, Sri Mahamariamman Temple, Guan Di Temple, Petaling Street (“Chinatown”) and Kampung Baru. Pause to observe the striking contrast of old kampung houses against the Petronas Twin Towers, before capping off the ride with lunch at a locals-only spot. Part of the tour proceeds goes towards the conservation of a 100-year-old Kampung Baru home.

far fa-clock

9am

Return to Sekeping Tenggiri to rest or freshen up, before heading out to the RIUH Bazaar at APW Bangsar (a 10-min walk away). Open on selected weekends, the bazaar features a delectable range of food, fashion and craft by local artisans.

While Bangsar is a largely residential area, Jalan Telawi and Bangsar Village mall (a 15-min walk away) house some of the city’s chicest cafes, boutiques and creative spaces. Don’t miss popping by family-run stationery trove CzipLee and quirky Malaysian souvenir store APOM!. Tip: If you struggled to choose between Batik and Brickfields on Friday, you can skip Bangsar and explore Brickfields instead. 

far fa-clock

2pm

Fusion cuisine that supports school for all

Take a Grab ride over to Eat X Dignity in the Sentul area to enjoy a modern mix of Malaysian, Asian-Fusion and Western cuisine. An initiative by the Dignity for Children Foundation, all proceeds from the café support the education of underprivileged children. Take the chance to walk around their outdoor Kitchen Garden, which doubles up as an outdoor classroom for the foundation’s students. It’s also a good time to spot the greens that will make their way into your dishes and drinks!

You can call it a day (it was after all an early start),  or power on to catch a show at the non-profit klpac (Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre) in support of the Malaysian performing arts scene. Sit back and enjoy a concert, dance, musical or play.

far fa-clock

6pm

SUNDAY

Take a leisurely stroll to breakfast. Just five minutes away is Ganga, which serves delicious roti canai (Indian-style flatbread both crispy and chewy) and nasi lemak (savoury rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf). Here’s a twist: The anchovies in the nasi lemak sambal (which packs a punch) are actually made from soybeans, as Ganga is a vegetarian restaurant.

If you prefer to sample some Peranakan (Straits Chinese) flavours, just further down the street is Baba’s Low 486 where you’ll find traditional favourites like mee siam, laksa, popiah and cendol.

Head back to check out from Sekeping Tenggiri by 11am, before bidding farewell to your Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur.

far fa-clock

9am

IF YOU GO

A Weekend of Good in Singapore

photo
Article contributors
Glitzy, straitlaced, business-driven. Multi-cultural, creative, warm-hearted. Two sides of Singapore, one city. Here's how to spend a weekend there, while doing some good.
A Weekend of Good in Singapore
A Weekend of Good in Singapore

A glitzy, business-driven city governed by strict laws, clean and carefully groomed down to the trees flanking its roads — that’s Singapore, in the minds of many visitors.

Look past the skyscrapers however, and you’ll find heritage districts that have retained their historic flair while undergoing a renaissance, hidden cultural gems and quiet streets steeped in character.

And beneath the bustle of commercial activity, there are individuals and enterprises on a mission to deliver authentic experiences while championing a meaningful cause.

DON'T MISS
FRIDAY - Cultural and contemporary
Private tours that make you feel like a local

Start your day by stepping back in time to learn more about Singapore’s early years with Tribe Tours, which prides itself on building strong bonds with local community and maintaining respect for local craft to deliver guided experiences with heart. Try their Disappearing Tradestour, which immerses you in traditional trades that are past their heydays but still carried on by passionate craftsmen thrilled to share their skill. 

The tour takes you to a local coffee roasting factory, a traditional bakery that has been turning out fragrant, fluffy loaves for decades, and a workshop where intricate paper houses are painstakingly created as an offering for the dead as part of Chinese customs. Every stop is a step into living history, and an opportunity to connect with ordinary folks who were part of Singapore’s crucial post-independence years. 

far fa-clock

9am

A dim sum cafe that empowers ex-offenders

For lunch, drop by Breakthrough Café for dim sum, which are tasty, Cantonese-style small bites. Located along a row of food shops on the ground floor of People’s Park Centre in Chinatown, the service is friendly, the food is satisfying and the mission warms the heart: the eatery offers former drug offenders employment, allowing them to hone their skills to make a fresh start.  

far fa-clock

1.30pm

A sustainable cafe with style

After filling your stomach, take a leisurely stroll along Eu Tong Sen Street and soak in historic sights like buildings such as People’s Park Complex, the former Majestic Hotel and Sri Mariamman Temple, Singapore's oldest Hindu Temple. For a glimpse of what goes on in a typical market, take a small detour to Chinatown Market and get up close to the action at the various stalls selling fresh produce, meats and fish. 

Next, take shelter from the afternoon heat at The Social Space on Kreta Ayer Street. Comprising a café with healthy vegetarian options, a retail space and a nail salon, the multi-concept store is chic and cheery, with a carefully-curated selection of high-quality, fair-trade products that don’t harm the environment or support a social cause. Many are made in Southeast Asia and make for perfect souvenirs. You can also treat yourself to a manicure by The Nail Social, which trains and employers underprivileged women to help improve their livelihoods.

far fa-clock

3pm

Continue with the retail therapy by hopping on the train to Somerset station (along the North-South Line on the MRT, the city's metro system ), which will take you to Design Orchard, the latest addition to the stretch of glitzy malls in the heart of Orchard Road. Home to 61 home-grown brands, you can find locally-designed clothes, accessories, home furnishing and even food souvenirs here. There’s also an amphitheatre at the rooftop, perfect for chilling and people-watching after your retail therapy session.

If you passed on getting a manicure earlier, consider a massage at My Foot Reflexology in Midpoint Orchard just beside Design Orchard. Its ordinary shopfront belies its heartfelt mission: it employs the visually-impaired as therapists, and the service is deft and seamless. 

far fa-clock

4pm

Asian fusion fare with a social mission

Have a laid-back dinner at Crossings Cafe, tucked away in the Catholic Centre on Waterloo Street, which serves well-priced comfort food blending local and western flavours, such as chilli crab pasta. The social enterprise employs people from disadvantaged backgrounds to help them get a stronger footing in life, and also donates its proceeds to charity. 

far fa-clock

7pm

Public transport in Singapore is efficient and affordable, but cycling allows you to breezily explore the back lanes of each district, while keeping you carbon footprint small. 

Let’s Go Bike Singapore’s Historical Singapore Bike Tour takes you along the Singapore River, across Marina Bay, the Civic District and the main cultural districts like Chinatown and Kampong Glam. You guide will share stories of Singapore’s early development as you retrace the steps of migrant communities in search of a better life. The tour starts and ends at the bike shop located at Crawford Lane, accessible on foot from Lavender MRT station.

If cycling is not your thing, sleep in a little before making your way to the National Gallery Singapore and browse the world’s largest public collection of modern Southeast Asian art. Housed in the former City Hall and former Supreme Court, the museum’s classic-meets-modern architecture, stunning interior and unique environmentally-friendly features draw just as much attention as its exhibitions.

SATURDAY - Green in and around the Garden City
Bike around Singapore's backstreets

Public transport in Singapore is efficient and affordable, but cycling allows you to breezily explore the back lanes of each district, while keeping you carbon footprint small. 

Let’s Go Bike Singapore’s Historical Singapore Bike Tour takes you along the Singapore River, across Marina Bay, the Civic District and the main cultural districts like Chinatown and Kampong Glam. You guide will share stories of Singapore’s early development as you retrace the steps of migrant communities in search of a better life. The tour starts and ends at the bike shop located at Crawford Lane, accessible on foot from Lavender MRT station.

If cycling is not your thing, sleep in a little before making your way to the National Gallery Singapore and browse the world’s largest public collection of modern Southeast Asian art. Housed in the former City Hall and former Supreme Court, the museum’s classic-meets-modern architecture, stunning interior and unique environmentally-friendly features draw just as much attention as its exhibitions.

far fa-clock

8.30am

Unwind with a coffee that empowers

For lunch, hit up Mahota Commune, not far from Little India and the Jalan Besar Conservation Area. The space consists of a farm-to-table restaurant, a bakery, a retail space and even a clinic. Enjoy wholesome pastas, salads or sharing platters made from seasonal organic produce responsibly sourced from farms around the region.  

An alternative within the city centre is The Caffeine Experience, which has outlets at Tanjong Pagar and on Orchard Road, making it a convenient stop for a light lunch and a great cup of coffee. Believing that everyone deserves a good meal and a second chance, the café hires former drug offenders to give them a means to regain their confidence and make a living. Note that the Tanjong Pagar outlet closes at 2pm on Saturdays and is closed on Sundays. 

far fa-clock

1pm

Cool off in the afternoon at Gardens by the Bay, a sprawling park comprising three waterfront gardens on 101ha of reclaimed land. Its futuristic Supertrees and cooled Conservatories are an impressive sight, as are its sustainability principles that ensure efficient use of energy and water, such as burning the bio-waste collected to generate energy for its needs.  

For a small fee, audio tours are conducted daily where visitors are taken on a scenic and informative 25-minute ride around the Gardens. Or opt for the Auto Rider, an air-conditioned self-driving vehicle with live commentary on board. The park is a 15-minute walk from Bayfront MRT Station on the Circle or Downtown Line.

far fa-clock

3pm

Feast on claypot delights and transform lives

After a day exploring the island, reward yourself with dinner at Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong, on Haji Lane in the Kampong Glam area, a farm-to-table restaurant serving fish and shellfish from its own Singaporean kelong farm (traditional wooden platforms built over water). Dishes like curry mussels, grouper served with sweet potato noodles, and chilli crab risotto offer a fresh take on classic Southeast Asian flavours. It shares a space with local favourite Bar Stories, which can mix up bespoke cocktails to complement your food (and mood). 

For those who don’t mind travelling a little further, take a taxi to Soon Huat Bak Kut Teh in Bedok in the eastern part of Singapore. Bak kut teh is pork ribs served in a rich, peppery or herbal broth, and Soon Huat also serves up a lightly-spiced “dry” version in a claypot, as well as other local dishes. The restaurant was founded by an ex-offender who offers those who have served time a new lease of life through employment. 

far fa-clock

6.30pm

SUNDAY - Hidden gems
A cemetery walk of history, art and nature

Most people would not think of spending their Sunday mornings at a cemetery, but Bukit Brown Cemetery’s tranquil surroundings, varied history and famous graves possess an unusual appeal. Guided tours are available on scheduled weekends by a.t.Bukit Brown (All Things Bukit Brown), a volunteer group dedicated to keeping alive the history of Bukit Brown, which is under threat from development. There are also self-guided tour routes by the Singapore Heritage Society should you prefer to explore at your own pace.

If traipsing through jungle paths isn’t an option for you, consider visiting Henderson Waves, Singapore’s highest pedestrian bridge for your dose of lush urban greenery. A taxi can drop you near one end of the bridge, which has wide, flat paths. The bridge is part of the Southern Ridges, a 10-km long trail that connects parks along the southern part of the island.

far fa-clock

9am

A tasty meal that uplifts the underprivileged

After a morning outdoors, head to Food for Thought at the National Museum of Singapore for a hearty brunch. The social enterprise also allows you to give back, by sponsoring S$10 (US$7.20) food bundles for the underprivileged through Food Bank Singapore, or donating S$2 (US$1.40) to a well-building project in Asia. 

far fa-clock

12pm

A pottery workshop with a social mission

History and craft meet at the traditional pottery kilns that have survived urbanisation in Boon Lay, at the western end of Singapore. Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle is home to Singapore’s oldest surviving wood-fired “dragon” kiln, so named for its distinctive, snaking structure. The friendly, family-run business has been flying the flag for traditional pottery in Singapore for decades from its rustic premises, and runs  regular workshops for the public.

Alternatively, you can also visit Center Pottery in the historic Joo Chiat district, which also offers regular classes and sells more contemporary, handmade pieces by resident potters. Promoting the therapeutic benefits of working with clay for mental health, the social enterprise also conducts weekly classes at a home for the intellectually disabled.

far fa-clock

3:30pm

Explore the unexpected in a redlight district

Urban jungles like Singapore can feel isolating at times. Enter One Kind House for a pleasant reprieve and a chance to interact with locals and fellow travellers over an intimate, home-cooked dinner. The meal is prepared by the resident chef and head of the household — affectionately known as Mummy Soh — and served in her family home in Joo Chiat. One Kind House, which aims to keep local culture and community alive, also offers cooking classes. 

If you are early, take a walk around Joo Chiat and Katong, once the enclave of the Peranakans, Straits-born people of Chinese and Malay or Indonesian descent, who over centuries developed a rich craft and cuisine heavily influenced by their multicultural heritage. The neighbourhood is identified by the colourful, intricate shophouse facades that line the narrow streets. 

A grittier alternative is Geylang Adventures, which takes you on a guided tour of Geylang, Singapore’s red-light district. Its guides offer a thought-provoking commentary that mixes cultural interest with pertinent local social and policy issues, giving you a nuanced view of life in Singapore rarely seen by tourists — and a chance to enjoy mouthwatering  food along the way. Founded as an initiative to support the marginalised migrant worker community in Singapore, it runs projects such as giving free haircuts for migrant workers and the poor on weekends.

It now also offers a tour in the neighbourhood of Dakota, which lets you take in the quaint charms of one of Singapore's oldest housing estates, while learning about how redevelopment plans affected the elderly who called it home. 

far fa-clock

5.30pm

IF YOU GO

A Weekend of Good in Mumbai

photo
Article contributors
Mumbai is a vibrant swirl of extremes, where labourers jostle with billionaires, and rich history meets modern excess. Here's how to spend a weekend there, while doing some good.
A Weekend of Good in Mumbai
A Weekend of Good in Mumbai

Mumbai — or Bombay, as old-timers still affectionately call her — is a sprawling city of contradictions, where hard labourers jostle alongside billionaires, and dreamers come and go. 

But if there’s one thing that hasn’t yielded to time, it’s its 24/7 buzz. (And, of course, its humidity.) This city, once seven islands, precariously juxtaposes the old with the new, while reminding you that in life, the only constant is change.

DON'T MISS
FRIDAY - Colonial charms in South Mumbai

Settle into your hotel, then grab a cab to Charni Road. On the way, make sure to admire Marine Drive, the 3.6km-long boulevard carving a gentle arc into the southern end of the city. This road is also known as the Queen’s Necklace because by night, its street lights resemble a sparkling necklace. 

On Charni Road, lunch awaits at The Bombay Havelli. Designed to evoke the ambience of a haveli (a traditional northern Indian-style mansion), the restaurant serves authentic vegetarian cuisine with a focus on north Indian and Gujarati food. Don’t miss the dal baati churma, a Rajasthani dish comprising round flat Indian breads such as baatis, served with dal (a spicy lentil gravy) and churma, which is crushed deep-fried baatis mixed with jaggery, a golden brown sugar.  

Aside serving up good food, Bombay Havelli has a second mission: co-founders Marzy Parakh, Parth Dalal and Sarthak Oza want to empower the differently-abled. People with physical disabilities make up one-third of their staff and a portion of their profits goes towards the upliftment of those with disabilities, such as by providing training.

Save room for dessert — just 300m away is Bachelorr’s, which serves up ice-cream in eye-catching flavours like green chilli or kesar pista (pistachio and saffron).

far fa-clock

1pm

A kaali-peeli (black and yellow) taxi will whisk you to the historic Fort precinct. The majestic Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus Railway Terminus (CSMT), formerly known as Victoria Terminus, is unmissable, but often overlooked is the CSMT Railway Heritage Museum tucked within the 130-year-old landmark. A 200 rupee (US$2.90) ticket gets you a guided tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Site on weekdays, allowing you to time-travel through its Mughal-meets-Gothic architecture — stained glass, marble, granite imported from Italy, red stone sourced from Agra in northern India, and yellow sandstone from Mumbai itself, when it was still officially called Bombay. 

far fa-clock

2.30pm

A shop where every craft has a story

Work off some calories by walking 1km south to Hutatma Chowk, once named for the ornate Flora Fountain located there, built in 1864. The square now commemorates those killed by the police in 1955 while fighting for Maharashtra — Mumbai’s home state — to be accorded statehood. 

Next, bibliophiles can pop over to Kitab Khana, an independent bookstore with a good selection of Indian literature in English. Another five minutes’ walk brings you to ARTISANS’, a exhibition-retail space showcasing beautiful handmade crafts from all over India. The brainchild of Radhi Parekh, the social enterprise makes sure patrons know the story behind every piece of textile, ceramic, metal and wood, and most of the profits from a sale goes back to the artisans. 

far fa-clock

4.30pm

Authentic tours of Mumbai that give back

Having gotten your day’s fill of history and culture, it’s time to fill the belly. Take a deep dive into the savoury, the sweet and everything in between through Mumbai’s appropriately nicknamed khau gallis (food lanes), with a little help from Reality Tours and Travel (RTT). Its street food tour will take you through the haunts of Chowpatty and Mohommad Ali Road, where you can chow down dishes likpav bhaji, which is mixed vegetables bhaji cooked on an open pan topped with dollops of butter and served with pav (bread). Guides are Mumbai natives who know the city like the back of their hand, and 80 per cent of RTT’s profits go back to the Dharavi community through its non-profit arm, Reality Gives. 

Wind down by hopping into a kaali-peeli to the Art Deco-style Regal Cinema, which sits amidst a number of charming spots for knocking back a few pints, such as Woodside Inn, Café Leopold and Café Mondegar. 

far fa-clock

6pm

SATURDAY - Green Escape
An art tour that supports the Warli community

After the whirlwind tour though south Mumbai the day before, change gears and unwind to the gentle pace of Walvanda, a hamlet some 130km outside Mumbai that’s home to the Warli tribe.  Through Grassroutes, a social enterprise, the community runs tours that allow visitors to take in Walvanda’s lush rural charms and see Warli art being created — the hamlet is one of the few places in India where the renowned art form is practised. 

With training and support from Grassroutes, the Warli are able to maintain their traditional way of life through tourism, instead of abandoning them to eke out a living in the cities. The itinerary includes a hands-on art and music workshop on Warli painting.

far fa-clock

7am

Sate your hunger – and learn sign language

Back in the city, head to Mirchi & Mime in the eastern suburb of Powai for a dinner of superb Indian cuisine. Hungry to do something that creates wealth for society and not just individuals,  Prashant Issar and Anuj Shah opened this chic, contemporary, dining spot staffed by people with hearing and speech impairments, where diners are taught how to use sign language to place their order. Beginning with a team of 27, the duo now have 44 staff across two restaurants (Madeira & Mime opened in 2015), giving a group that previously found it hard to find work the means to support themselves and their families.

far fa-clock

7pm

SUNDAY - The Other Mumbai

Begin your morning with a sumptuous breakfast at Café Irani Chaii in Mahim, a suburb in the western part of the city. One of the few remaining Irani cafes in the city, sipping a cup of Irani chai over some bun maska (soft buns slathered with a mix of white butter) here supports a declining trade. Don’t forget to spice up your morning with some drool-worthy mutton kheema pav, a robust curry dish. 

Next, meet your guide for your pre-booked tour of Dharavi outside Mahim railway station. Home to over half a million people, Dharavi gained notoriety after being dubbed Asia’s largest slum (a reputation reinforced by movies like Slumdog Millionaire), which cast a shadow over the nuances of its everyday life. It was the desire to change this narrative that motivated Chris Way to team up with Krishna Pujari to start Reality Tours and Travel (RTT) in 2005. Over two hours, RTT’s guides take you on a fascinating walk into this self-contained “mini-city” — teeming with home-based factories (plastic recycling, soap-making, leather goods), and households of all religions (living together amicably or otherwise). To respect the privacy and dignity of the residents, RTT has a strict “no photography” policy for its Dharavi tour. 

far fa-clock

9am

A good foot massage, for good

After the tour,  end your weekend with a treat at Mettaa Reflexology, a no-frills spa in Bandra, a charming district also known as the queen of the suburbs. The 10-year-old spa is known for its 400-rupee massages (US$5.80), and hires massage therapists who are visually-impaired. Founder Joanita was an ICU nurse-turned-alternative-therapies-practitioner, who volunteered at the National Association for the Blind training their students in foot reflexology. Mettaa was set up to offer a simple, no-fuss spa experience, as well as provide employment to blind massage therapists who were being refused jobs despite their qualifications.

far fa-clock

1pm

Travellers' Tips

A Weekend of Good in Penang

Article contributors
In Penang, multiculturalism and tradition, sizzling street food, contemporary arts and rustic nature create irresistible magic. Here's how to spend a weekend there, while doing some good.
A Weekend of Good in Penang
A Weekend of Good in Penang

In Penang, tradition and heritage thrive — right alongside a lively contemporary arts scene and design culture. Thanks to the efforts of dedicated locals, George Town’s shophouse-lined streets have been lovingly preserved and form a treasure trove of Peranakan, colonial and religious architectural gems, around which a culinary and arts scene has flourished. 

But Penang, or Pulau Pinang to be exact, is more than just George Town; the laidback, rustic charms of Balik Pulau reveal a gentler side of the state capital, where countryside meets nature. 

Millions visit Penang every year, but few venture off the beaten path. Try it, and be won over by both sides of the island’s magic. 

DON'T MISS 
Friday – Old World grandeur, vanishing trades
A boutique hotel helping the good old days shine

Check into your hotel, ideally located somewhere in Georgetown, where you’ll be close to most of the historical hotspots and heritage landmarks. Of the many stylish boutique hotels that grace Penang’s atmospheric streets, our favourite is Ren i Tang, a former derelict 19th century Chinese medical hall restored into an intimate boutique hotel by a pair of sustainability-minded friends, Eu Yeok Siew and Low Teng Lei.

Ren i Tang’s romantic history echoes through its wooden louvre windows, narrow staircases, soaring ceilings and dark wood furniture. Little touches provide a window into the building’s past: the original airwell, a traditional basket pulley system to transport your luggage, and a museum that displays relics that were rescued and cleaned by the owners. Thanks to its prime location in Little India, the hotel has shops selling Indian snacks and saris at its doorstep, which means you’ll never be bored or hungry. 

Curious how Penang got its start in heritage conservation? Hail a Grab and get your answer at Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Blue Mansion, the magnificent former home of a Hakka magnate and the earliest example of heritage conservation in Penang. Rescued by concerned conservationists from imminent development that would have resulted in its certain demolition, its sensitive restoration led to being awarded as a UNESCO Heritage building, and more importantly, kick-started public awareness about the value in heritage conservation. Trivia: You may recognize the courtyard as the location for the pivotal mahjong scene in hit movie Crazy Rich Asians.

far fa-clock

3pm

A Chinese clan settlement that has survived modernity

By now, the temperature would have cooled. Hop on a trishaw and head for the port to catch the sunset. It’s a fun way to see the city without breaking a sweat, plus you’ll support a fading industry – reportedly less than 80 of these vehicles survive in Penang.

As you go past the Straits of Malacca, admire the impressive Penang bridge. Stop at the Clan Jetties, a waterfront village of houses on stilts belonging to various Chinese clans, many of them over a century old. Similar jetties were demolished by property developers, but the remaining ones have survived thanks to interest from tourists. The Chew Jetty is the most tourist-friendly with the longest walkway, pop-up stalls and a floating temple. But note that the jetties are still homes, so respect the residents’ privacy. 

far fa-clock

6pm

A heritage shophouse of cake and culture

Dinner is just a short walk across the road to Weld Quay Village Coffee Shop, a culinary institution famous for cheap and tasty seafood. Save room for dessert; scoot over to China House, whose legendary cake spread features up to an eye-popping 50 varieties at any time. Spread over three shophouses, the space also doubles up as a creative hub, with regular poetry slams, author talks, and art exhibitions. Check out Art Lane, its latest initiative a few doors away — the entire interior of a building has been turned into a canvas for budding artists.

fal fa-clock

7pm

Saturday – Heritage + Culture + Nature = Melting pot
A souvenir trove where history meets shopping

At a compact 2.5 sq km, and packed with narrow, bustling streets littered with picturesque shopfronts, George Town is perfect for exploring on foot.

An easier option for your feet is Linkbike, a bike-sharing programme which lets you get around with ease while keeping your carbon footprint light. See all the stations on this map

Head for Armenian Street, where a staggering number of historic buildings, stately temples, galleries and shophouses congregate. A must-see is Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, noted for its remarkable architecture and opulent temple, and Sun Yat Sen’s former Penang base.  

The tourism boom has had its downsides: long-time residents who can no longer afford the rising rents have been driven out, chipping away the social character that made George Town unique. Take the time to appreciate some of the remaining traditional crafts that make up Penang’s heritage — look out for old shops where graying artisans make signboards, handmade shoes, anchors and rattan furniture. 

Next to Kuan Yin temple, 91-year-old Lee Beng Chuan takes pride in teaching visitors the art of making joss sticks. In Little India, Kedai Songkok OSM Mohd Shariff is the only place left in Penang to find handmade songkoks, which are Muslim headgear.

Penang’s famed street art is unmissable as you wander through George Town. The colourful murals had their beginnings in 2009, through Marking George Town, a government-run competition that saw 52 steel rod sculptures depicting local customs and heritage installed on various historic streets. In 2012, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic was commissioned by the George Town Festival to do a series of public paintings – and the rest is history. Ask your hotel for a street art map to see them all. 

If you’re in the mood for something quirky, visit one of the many offbeat museums that have sprung up in Penang. If you only have time for one, head for Wonderfood Museum, which celebrates Penang’s food culture with hyper-realistic replicas of Malaysian dishes. Gimmicky but fun, you'll have a ball posing with massive models of cendol, laksa, curry mee, char kuey teow, and ais kacang. There’s also an educational side that shows how some dining choices can harm the environment – such as a wedding banquet table scattered with models of bloodied sharks to highlight the cruel process of producing shark’s fin soup.

Feel like shopping instead? Consider Jonathan Yun’s exquisite sculptural Peranakan jewellery, or 41 Living Story, a souvenir shop that carries products made by Stepping Stone Work Centre, an organisation that employs people with special needs. Book-lovers will love Gerakbudaya, an independent bookshop with an excellent selection of titles by South East Asian authors. 

far fa-clock

9am

An arts community in an old bus depot

You can’t claim to have visited Penang without eating at Joo Hooi Café, Penang’s most popular kopitiam for Chinese street food classics. While queuing for your laksa/cendol/char kuay teow/ lobaklook up at KOMTAR, the island’s tallest landmark  — and interestingly, the only building visible from any point in George Town.

Longing for somewhere less crowded? Make your way to Hin Bus Depot. Its founders turned an abandoned a 60,000 sq ft old bus depot into an open-air arts hub where cafes, artist studios, and an art gallery co-exist with the original coffee shop, hardware shop and motorcycle repair shop. Check their calendar for exhibitions and pop-up markets.  The in-house vegan café, Wholey Wonder, is opened by a couple who wanted to debunk the misconception that vegan food is boring – think scrumptious chickpea-crust pizza and almond-and-date-based “Snickers”.  

far fa-clock

1pm

A canopy walk in an ancient rainforest

Penang is not all food, murals and architecture porn. Just 20 minutes’ drive from George Town is Penang Hill, a former colonial hill station turned recreational hub. Pro tip: once you get off the funicular that stops at the main recreational area, avoid the crowds and head straight to The Habitat, an eco-tourism attraction on the fringe of a 130 million-year-old forest reserve.

Opened in 2017, The Habitat offers fun experiences designed to promote awareness of and preserve rainforest biodiversity. There’s a well-crafted 1.6-km nature trail that serves as an outdoor classroom of indigenous flora and fauna; a vertigo-inducing tree-top walk that requires you to brave a lot of stairs, but rewards you with thrilling 360-degree views all the way to Langkawi island; a canopy walk that puts you so close to the giant trees, you can almost touch them. Those seeking a rush can jump on the 700m zipline that whizzes you across the valley into the rainforest and back again.

far fa-clock

3pm

You can’t come to nasi kandar country without eating this iconic Indian-Muslim rice and curry dish at least once. Crowd favourites Hameediyah and Line Clear are always good bets. Make sure you ask for “nasi banjir” i.e. drown your rice with gravy.

far fa-clock

7pm

Sunday – #slowtravel Penang

Spend the day exploring Penang’s idyllic southwest known as Balik Pulau, literally “back of the island”. A world away from George Town, the landscape is dotted with paddy fields, fruit orchards and fishing villages. The area is best explored by hiring a taxi for the day, as the roads there are winding and ride-hailing can be spotty. 

First, have a lie-in and enjoy breakfast at Ren I Tang. As a way of working with the community, the hotel buys vegetarian food from the neighbourhood coffee shops.   

Many of the orchards in Balik Pulau offer farm tours, but these can be very popular, so book ahead. Our vote goes to Green Acres Orchard and Ecolodge, where you can sample one of Penang’s most famous exports: durian.  Run by a passionate couple who hope to encourage more young people to take up farming, the 16-acre farm offers you the chance to explore its over 450 matured durian and fruit trees, and spice plants, all cultivated sustainably. Enchanted by its idyllic setting? You can book a stay in one of their three beautiful eco-lodges (among them a treehouse!) that were built using materials reassembled from old kampong houses.

far fa-clock

9am

A disability arts workshop that empowers

Have a late lunch of assam laksa, reputedly the island’s best, at Kim Laksa in the town centre. 

On your way out, do some ethical shopping at Stepping Stone Work Centre, an arts-and-crafts centre that provides on-the-job training for adults with special needs. You can buy stunning bags and pouches, eclectic totes, table runners, soaps and artworks that are repurposed from recycled materials. Look out for workshops to pick up from craft skills of your own; conversely, ask about becoming a live-in artist-in-residence to guide the staff. 

If you’re in the mood, head northward to Tropical Spice Garden, an award-winning eco-destination with over 500 varieties of exotic fauna and flora. It’s a good spot to sign up for a local cooking course, during which spices from the surrounding garden are used. 

far fa-clock

2pm

For dinner, head to Andrew’s Kampung, in Batu Ferringhi, once rated Penang’s No 1 restaurant in Penang by Tripadvisor, for a quintessential Malaysian dinner.

It’s been a super productive weekend. You’ve earned the right to drop off your bags and relax your feet at Lost Paradise Resort, an eclectic seafront resort that supports an inclusive school for students with special needs and a free clinic for children. As you take comfort in the knowledge that your money is going to a good cause, it’s probably dawning on you by now that people – and their good intentions — are at the heart of this island’s charm. 

far fa-clock

7pm

A Weekend of Good in Bangalore

photo
Article contributors
Bangalore may be a tech hub, but look past the concrete jungle to discover its green heart. Here's how to spend a weekend there while doing some good.
A Weekend of Good in Bangalore
A Weekend of Good in Bangalore

Bangalore (officially Bengaluru), has been dubbed the Silicon Valley of India, reflecting the burgeoning metropolis’ reputation as a tech powerhouse. 

But it is also known as the Garden City of India, and for good reason: the mild weather (it was once the summer residence for the British during colonial times), the easy-going yet urbane vibe, and the countless eateries and microbreweries that never disappoint gastronomes. 

This southern city is the story of two Indias – one constructing, the other conserving. Look past the concrete jungle (and its maddening traffic) to discover its green heart: a haven of clean eating, conscious buying and mindful coexistence between old and new. 

DON'T MISS
FRIDAY – Craft with a touch of green
Eat well at this plant-based cafe

After you’ve checked in, make your way to Sadashiv Nagar’s JustBe – Bangalore’s first plant-based whole food restaurant. Located off a busy street and housed within a gated compound, the environs quickly transport you to a serene world. It offers a range of non-refined, non-processed yet diverse options —  the beetroot-based Pink Falafel Sandwich and the Pink Papaya Smoothie make for a refreshing lunch, while the millet and whole wheat pizzas are highly recommended. Stocked with board games, books and designated spaces for sound healing, meditation and yoga, JustBe is an endearing haunt, whether you’re travelling solo or with company.

Fuelled up, you can head over to Bangalore Palace at the heart of the city. It is said that King Chamaraja was so awestruck by Windsor Castle that he had the Tudor-style palace built in 1887. The ballroom, the durbar (assembly hall) and the many paintings that adorn the walls of the palace are the notable highlights. Do enquire about the audio guide before initiating your tour.

far fa-clock

12pm

Explore Bangalore's artistic side

Hop into an auto rickshaw and head south to channel your inner creative genius while supporting the regional art scene at Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath. The visual arts complex has 18 galleries devoted to paintings, photography and folk art. It also offers a space for artists and artisans to showcase and sell their work, and hosts frequent flea markets, making it a worthy stop any given day of the week. 

If you fancy a snack, the canteen (run by the Kamat chain of hotels) does not disappoint: fluffy idlis (rice flour cakes) and buttery masala dosas (thin pancakes filled with spiced potatoes), which also happen to be vegan, await.

far fa-clock

3pm

Shop for crafts sourced from all over Karnataka

Beat the traffic by taking the Metro from Mantri Square Sampige Road station and get to Mahatma Gandhi Road station. Bangalore’s M.G. Road is one among the city’s most bustling areas, with its markets, commercial avenues and finest of eateries.

Consider stopping at the Cauvery Handicrafts Emporium. Established and run by the government of Karnataka state, this is the place to sate your itch for handmade and handcrafted local arts and crafts such as wood carvings, metal crafts and lacquerware. The initiative sees artisans in the state supported with training and market connections, as well as raw materials at subsidised rates.

The road also runs past Cubbon Park, one of the city’s green lungs spread over 300 acres, and home to over 6,000 trees, for a breather. And under a kilometre away on St Mark’s Road is Koshy’s where one can spend a couple of hours over food and drinks while being transported to a bygone era. A family-owned establishment run by its third generation, Koshy’s began as a bakery in 1940 and has hosted visitors including dignitaries like the late Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and the Queen of England. Do try their potato smileys!

far fa-clock

6pm

SATURDAY – To market, to market
Wander through Bangalore's most bustling market

Early birds, don’t miss Bangalore’s Krishna Rajendra Market, better known as KR Market, which can be reached via the Metro (stop at Chickpet). Renowned for its huge flower market, this wholesale market is a visual treat for the discerning traveller who enjoys observing a city’s underbelly. It’s best to trust your feet guide to you through the order in the clamour – so wear comfortable footwear and don’t forget your camera. KR Market sits on a site that was once the battleground for the Anglo-Mysore wars. 

far fa-clock

7am

Recover from the sensory overload and reward the body with breakfast at MTR — short for Mavalli Tiffin Rooms — just south of KR Market. 

A 1920s establishment, MTR is that quintessential Udipi restaurant for those seeking authentic experiences in the city, a haunt for locals and tourists alike. The simple setting belies the lively atmosphere and sheer delightfulness of the food: try the rava idli, an MTR invention of steamed semolina cakes, or bisibele bhath, a rice dish with tamarind, lentils and vegetables. MTR is also a good lunch option if you skip it in favour of seeing the sights first. 

Next, stroll through the Lalbagh Botanical Gardens known not just for its collection of the rarest plants and trees but also its avian residents. Lalbagh was spearheaded by Hyder Ali and completed by his son Tipu Sultan. The glass-house dating from 1889 is unmissable.

Next, check out Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace. Built entirely from teak wood, stone and mortar in 1791, its ceilings and the walls bear remnants of floral motifs, painstakingly detailed. Reflecting Indo-Islamic architecture, the rooms on the ground floor of the palace have been converted into a mini-museum offering insights into the life of Tipu Sultan. A sign-board in Farsi at the entrance reads: “Abode of happiness and envy of heaven”.

A mere stone’s throw away (450m) is the Bangalore Fort, also known as Tipu’s Fort. Its construction as a mud fort is believed to have begun around the 1530s by Kempe Gowda I, (considered the founder of modern day Bangalore). Later, Haider Ali, the father of Tipu Sultan,  is believed to have replaced it with a stone one in 1761. Only a part of the fort remains intact. Entry is free.

far fa-clock

10am

Shop for rural crafts in an urban marketplace

In the afternoon, indulge in some retail therapy. Walk towards KR Market Metro station and head to South End Circle to get to DESI, short for Developing Ecologically Sustainable Industry. An urban marketplace for handmade and handcrafted rural products, DESI was set up so that the weavers of Charaka, a handloom cooperative working with rural artisans in the district of Shimoga, would have a space to sell their handcrafted wares.

Converted from an old house, the DESI flagship store itself is a lovely space — the red oxidised floor is a beautiful highlight — and it carries a range of eco-friendly wares, like clothing, scarves and quilts produced without chemicals. 

far fa-clock

3pm

Go back to nature at this restaurant-boutique

Next, make your way back to the South End Circle metro stop and head further south to the Rashtreeya Vidyalaya Road stop. There, you’ll find a haven for all things local, sustainable and healthy — Go Native. Also housed in a space converted from a former residence, the restaurant and store offers delectable delights and an array of products sourced from over 50 local organisations.

Its retail area offers apparel, household decor, handmade soaps and oils as well as upcycled and handcrafted furniture. All are created with organisations who offer environmentally-conscious alternatives to products consumed on a daily basis. 

The restaurant on the upper floor opens out to the balcony area nestled in the canopy of trees, providing a peaceful spot  to wind down for the day with dinner, with local dishes created from locally-grown, pesticide-free produce, and presented with a modern twist. If you go in the afternoon, it's also a great spot for enjoying a book or chatting with friends. 

far fa-clock

6pm

SUNDAY
Shop at a market that's reviving village life

If you’ve picked up an appreciation for the clean living and farm-to-table dining wave that’s sweeping Bangalore, Ragi Kana is a good place to delve deeper. 

Held weekly in a school in south Bangalore, Ragi Kana sees local cooperatives come together to hold workshops and talks, amidst a market in which you can buy their wares.

The year-old volunteer-driven initiative is aimed at reducing the rural-urban divide through dialogue, and talks range in topic from sustainability to civic issues. Workshops include cooking, block printing, theatre, gourd art and weaving. The initiative is spearheaded by Mr Prasanna, who also started Charaka and DESI.

far fa-clock

11am

Support dignity with your delicious meal

Make your way back to the city and get to Koramangala to round up your stay with a unique lunch experience at Echoes.

Warm and earthy in vibe, Echoes is also warm-hearted: it hires people with speech and hearing impairment, to provide a dignified livelihood to those with disabilities. It has two outlets, one in New Delhi and one in Bangalore, and it hires its staff through local NGO partners. 

The tables at Echoes have cue cards and patrons order by writing down the number assigned to each dish. Every table has a lamp to be flicked to catch the attention of servers, who rely on visual cues. And as for the menu, the Classic Butter Chicken Thali, the Tandoori Momos and the Ferrero Rocher Shake should not be missed. 

far fa-clock

2pm

IF YOU GO