Showing 79 of 79 result(s).
Tags
Countries
Story Types

A Weekend of Good in Mumbai

photo
Article contributors
Mumbai is a vibrant swirl of extremes, where labourers jostle with billionaires, and rich history meets modern excess. Here's how to spend a weekend there, while doing some good.
A Weekend of Good in Mumbai
A Weekend of Good in Mumbai

Mumbai — or Bombay, as old-timers still affectionately call her — is a sprawling city of contradictions, where hard labourers jostle alongside billionaires, and dreamers come and go. 

But if there’s one thing that hasn’t yielded to time, it’s its 24/7 buzz. (And, of course, its humidity.) This city, once seven islands, precariously juxtaposes the old with the new, while reminding you that in life, the only constant is change.

DON'T MISS
FRIDAY - Colonial charms in South Mumbai

Settle into your hotel, then grab a cab to Charni Road. On the way, make sure to admire Marine Drive, the 3.6km-long boulevard carving a gentle arc into the southern end of the city. This road is also known as the Queen’s Necklace because by night, its street lights resemble a sparkling necklace. 

On Charni Road, lunch awaits at The Bombay Havelli. Designed to evoke the ambience of a haveli (a traditional northern Indian-style mansion), the restaurant serves authentic vegetarian cuisine with a focus on north Indian and Gujarati food. Don’t miss the dal baati churma, a Rajasthani dish comprising round flat Indian breads such as baatis, served with dal (a spicy lentil gravy) and churma, which is crushed deep-fried baatis mixed with jaggery, a golden brown sugar.  

Aside serving up good food, Bombay Havelli has a second mission: co-founders Marzy Parakh, Parth Dalal and Sarthak Oza want to empower the differently-abled. People with physical disabilities make up one-third of their staff and a portion of their profits goes towards the upliftment of those with disabilities, such as by providing training.

Save room for dessert — just 300m away is Bachelorr’s, which serves up ice-cream in eye-catching flavours like green chilli or kesar pista (pistachio and saffron).

far fa-clock

1pm

A kaali-peeli (black and yellow) taxi will whisk you to the historic Fort precinct. The majestic Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus Railway Terminus (CSMT), formerly known as Victoria Terminus, is unmissable, but often overlooked is the CSMT Railway Heritage Museum tucked within the 130-year-old landmark. A 200 rupee (US$2.90) ticket gets you a guided tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Site on weekdays, allowing you to time-travel through its Mughal-meets-Gothic architecture — stained glass, marble, granite imported from Italy, red stone sourced from Agra in northern India, and yellow sandstone from Mumbai itself, when it was still officially called Bombay. 

far fa-clock

2.30pm

A shop where every craft has a story

Work off some calories by walking 1km south to Hutatma Chowk, once named for the ornate Flora Fountain located there, built in 1864. The square now commemorates those killed by the police in 1955 while fighting for Maharashtra — Mumbai’s home state — to be accorded statehood. 

Next, bibliophiles can pop over to Kitab Khana, an independent bookstore with a good selection of Indian literature in English. Another five minutes’ walk brings you to ARTISANS’, a exhibition-retail space showcasing beautiful handmade crafts from all over India. The brainchild of Radhi Parekh, the social enterprise makes sure patrons know the story behind every piece of textile, ceramic, metal and wood, and most of the profits from a sale goes back to the artisans. 

far fa-clock

4.30pm

Authentic tours of Mumbai that give back

Having gotten your day’s fill of history and culture, it’s time to fill the belly. Take a deep dive into the savoury, the sweet and everything in between through Mumbai’s appropriately nicknamed khau gallis (food lanes), with a little help from Reality Tours and Travel (RTT). Its street food tour will take you through the haunts of Chowpatty and Mohommad Ali Road, where you can chow down dishes likpav bhaji, which is mixed vegetables bhaji cooked on an open pan topped with dollops of butter and served with pav (bread). Guides are Mumbai natives who know the city like the back of their hand, and 80 per cent of RTT’s profits go back to the Dharavi community through its non-profit arm, Reality Gives. 

Wind down by hopping into a kaali-peeli to the Art Deco-style Regal Cinema, which sits amidst a number of charming spots for knocking back a few pints, such as Woodside Inn, Café Leopold and Café Mondegar. 

far fa-clock

6pm

SATURDAY - Green Escape
An art tour that supports the Warli community

After the whirlwind tour though south Mumbai the day before, change gears and unwind to the gentle pace of Walvanda, a hamlet some 130km outside Mumbai that’s home to the Warli tribe.  Through Grassroutes, a social enterprise, the community runs tours that allow visitors to take in Walvanda’s lush rural charms and see Warli art being created — the hamlet is one of the few places in India where the renowned art form is practised. 

With training and support from Grassroutes, the Warli are able to maintain their traditional way of life through tourism, instead of abandoning them to eke out a living in the cities. The itinerary includes a hands-on art and music workshop on Warli painting.

far fa-clock

7am

Sate your hunger – and learn sign language

Back in the city, head to Mirchi & Mime in the eastern suburb of Powai for a dinner of superb Indian cuisine. Hungry to do something that creates wealth for society and not just individuals,  Prashant Issar and Anuj Shah opened this chic, contemporary, dining spot staffed by people with hearing and speech impairments, where diners are taught how to use sign language to place their order. Beginning with a team of 27, the duo now have 44 staff across two restaurants (Madeira & Mime opened in 2015), giving a group that previously found it hard to find work the means to support themselves and their families.

far fa-clock

7pm

SUNDAY - The Other Mumbai

Begin your morning with a sumptuous breakfast at Café Irani Chaii in Mahim, a suburb in the western part of the city. One of the few remaining Irani cafes in the city, sipping a cup of Irani chai over some bun maska (soft buns slathered with a mix of white butter) here supports a declining trade. Don’t forget to spice up your morning with some drool-worthy mutton kheema pav, a robust curry dish. 

Next, meet your guide for your pre-booked tour of Dharavi outside Mahim railway station. Home to over half a million people, Dharavi gained notoriety after being dubbed Asia’s largest slum (a reputation reinforced by movies like Slumdog Millionaire), which cast a shadow over the nuances of its everyday life. It was the desire to change this narrative that motivated Chris Way to team up with Krishna Pujari to start Reality Tours and Travel (RTT) in 2005. Over two hours, RTT’s guides take you on a fascinating walk into this self-contained “mini-city” — teeming with home-based factories (plastic recycling, soap-making, leather goods), and households of all religions (living together amicably or otherwise). To respect the privacy and dignity of the residents, RTT has a strict “no photography” policy for its Dharavi tour. 

far fa-clock

9am

A good foot massage, for good

After the tour,  end your weekend with a treat at Mettaa Reflexology, a no-frills spa in Bandra, a charming district also known as the queen of the suburbs. The 10-year-old spa is known for its 400-rupee massages (US$5.80), and hires massage therapists who are visually-impaired. Founder Joanita was an ICU nurse-turned-alternative-therapies-practitioner, who volunteered at the National Association for the Blind training their students in foot reflexology. Mettaa was set up to offer a simple, no-fuss spa experience, as well as provide employment to blind massage therapists who were being refused jobs despite their qualifications.

far fa-clock

1pm

Travellers' Tips

A Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur

photo
Article contributors
Malaysia’s capital is as warm-hearted as it is warm. Here's how to spend a weekend there, while doing some good
A Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur
A Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur

Sleek landmarks, delicious hawker fare and shopping malls galore. The bustling city of Kuala Lumpur is where many congregate for a weekend of food and retail therapy.

But Malaysia’s capital is also as warm-hearted as it is warm. Creative, independent businesses and entrepreneurs invite you to immerse yourself in authentic cultural experiences, while making a difference in their own unique way. Take the path less travelled in this tropical metropolis, and you will discover its heart. 

DON'T MISS
FRIDAY – Cultures meet causes
A sustainably stylish boutique hotel

Arrive in Kuala Lumpur and head to Sekeping Tenggiri guesthouse in Bangsar. Tucked behind lush greenery, this rustic property reduces its carbon footprint through natural ventilation, cleverly positioned light shafts and recycled materials. As check-in typically begins at 2pm, drop off your luggage with the housekeeper before heading out to lunch.

Take a 15-min walk to Restoran Sri Nirwana Maju and tuck into (one of) the best banana leaf rice in town. Waiters come round to dish out three types of vegetables, white rice and curry, and you can add on a serving of their crowd-pleasing fried squid or chicken. Top it off with a refreshing cup of mango lassi (yoghurt smoothie) – but don’t be surprised by the absence of a straw. The restaurant recently embarked on a straw-free campaign and also plans to phase out the use of plastic cups.

far fa-clock

12 noon

Explore batik that weaves new livelihoods

After lunch, spend the afternoon immersing yourself in a Malaysian cultural experience: exercise your creativity at a batik-making workshop, or take a heritage walk to discover Brickfields known as KL’s Little India. 

For the former, take a 15-minute  taxi ride (we recommend ride sharing apps like Grab) to Batik Boutique in the Sri Hartamas area, to learn the intricacies of Batik dyeing. The class begins with a brief history of the wax-resist dye tradition, followed by an introduction to different techniques such as block printing and “canting” (drawing with a pen-like tool). 

As you work your artistic vision onto fabric, you’re also supporting a good cause: Batik Boutique trains and hires women from low-income backgrounds as seamstresses to produce their range of clothing, accessories and homeware. Check out their boutique and pick up some stylish souvenirs that support their cause. 

Batik not your cup of tea? Take a walk through Brickfields, KL’s “Little India” that’s also home to diverse places of worship that capture Malaysia’s multicultural and multireligious heritage. 

Start at the 114-year-old heritage site Vivekananda Ashrama, built in 1904 to commemorate the prominent Indian Hindu monk Swami Vivekananda.

After exploring the grounds, exit and turn left onto Jalan Tun Sambanthan. A large colourful fountain and a sandstone archway (the Torana Gate, a gift to Malaysia from the Government of India) mark the start of Little India’s main street. Switch on your senses and explore away: feast your eyes on the rainbow of sarees, sniff the myriad spices, fruits and flower garlands, and groove to Bollywood beats blasting from shophouse speakers. Take a pit stop at Restoran Chat Masala and order a teh ais tarik (iced pulled tea) to cool down. 

Cross the street onto Jalan Sultan Abdul Samad and spot the Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady of Fatima. Walk on for 300m and turn right onto Jalan Berhala, where you’ll find Maha Vihara, a Sinhalese-Buddhist temple that dates back to 1895. Retrace your steps to Jalan Sultan Abdul Samad – just down the road is Zion Cathedral, a Lutheran church founded in 1924.

Walk on for 300m and turn left towards Jalan Thambipillay to soothe your tired feet at PB Blind Massage. Paralympian Lee Seng Chow started this traditional Chinese massage centre, which is staffed by professionally-trained visually impaired therapists.

At the end of the street, be prepared to queue for the city’s most popular banana fritters at the roadside stall Brickfields Pisang Goreng (across from YMCA). Enjoy your piping hot snack as you stroll for 500m (head right on Jalan Tun Sambanthan before turning left onto Jalan Tebing) towards the 116-year old Hindu Sri Kwandasamy Temple. Wrap up your urban hike with a drink at De’Divine café, located just across the temple. The cafe trains and employs underprivileged youth and school dropouts, so you can enjoy a chendol smoothie whilst supporting a worthy cause. 

far fa-clock

2pm

Meals that rebuild refugee lives

After a full afternoon out and about, head back to Sekeping Tenggiri to check in and freshen up before dinner.

A unique dining experience awaits you at PichaEats’ Open House. Step into a refugee family’s home and get a taste of their food and culture. Over a spread of traditional dishes, you’ll hear first-hand stories that provide a glimpse into life as a refugee in Malaysia. 

These families come from various communities: Afghan, Burmese (Chin), Burmese (Rohingya), Iraqi, Palestinian and Syrian. Through offering catering services and Open Houses, PichaEats provides the refugees with a source of income and allows visitors to gain insight into their unique cultures.

Alternatively, head over to Charlie’s Café – a popular neighbourhood joint that serves Malaysian favourites and hearty Western fare. This cosy café in Taman Desa doesn’t only satisfy diners with tasty Sarawak laksa and fried chicken chop. It allows them to play a part in feeding the homeless through “pay-it-forward” meal vouchers. Every RM5 (US$1.20) voucher buys a catered-and-delivered meal for someone in need. In addition, owner Desonny Tuzan supports the livelihood of indigenous Hulu Langat farmers by sourcing agricultural produce from them.

far fa-clock

6pm

SATURDAY
Cycle to see Kuala Lumpur's hidden gems

Start your day bright and early by exploring the heart of the city the eco-friendly way — on two wheels with Bike with Elena. Bike down discreet alleyways as guide Elena Mei Yun weaves a fascinating tapestry of the history and culture of KL. The tour passes the city’s landmarks — Merdeka SquareSultan Abdul Samad Building, Jamek Mosque, Sri Mahamariamman Temple, Guan Di Temple, Petaling Street (“Chinatown”) and Kampung Baru. Pause to observe the striking contrast of old kampung houses against the Petronas Twin Towers, before capping off the ride with lunch at a locals-only spot. Part of the tour proceeds goes towards the conservation of a 100-year-old Kampung Baru home.

far fa-clock

9am

Return to Sekeping Tenggiri to rest or freshen up, before heading out to the RIUH Bazaar at APW Bangsar (a 10-min walk away). Open on selected weekends, the bazaar features a delectable range of food, fashion and craft by local artisans.

While Bangsar is a largely residential area, Jalan Telawi and Bangsar Village mall (a 15-min walk away) house some of the city’s chicest cafes, boutiques and creative spaces. Don’t miss popping by family-run stationery trove CzipLee and quirky Malaysian souvenir store APOM!. Tip: If you struggled to choose between Batik and Brickfields on Friday, you can skip Bangsar and explore Brickfields instead. 

far fa-clock

2pm

Fusion cuisine that supports school for all

Take a Grab ride over to Eat X Dignity in the Sentul area to enjoy a modern mix of Malaysian, Asian-Fusion and Western cuisine. An initiative by the Dignity for Children Foundation, all proceeds from the café support the education of underprivileged children. Take the chance to walk around their outdoor Kitchen Garden, which doubles up as an outdoor classroom for the foundation’s students. It’s also a good time to spot the greens that will make their way into your dishes and drinks!

You can call it a day (it was after all an early start),  or power on to catch a show at the non-profit klpac (Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre) in support of the Malaysian performing arts scene. Sit back and enjoy a concert, dance, musical or play.

far fa-clock

6pm

SUNDAY

Take a leisurely stroll to breakfast. Just five minutes away is Ganga, which serves delicious roti canai (Indian-style flatbread both crispy and chewy) and nasi lemak (savoury rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf). Here’s a twist: The anchovies in the nasi lemak sambal (which packs a punch) are actually made from soybeans, as Ganga is a vegetarian restaurant.

If you prefer to sample some Peranakan (Straits Chinese) flavours, just further down the street is Baba’s Low 486 where you’ll find traditional favourites like mee siam, laksa, popiah and cendol.

Head back to check out from Sekeping Tenggiri by 11am, before bidding farewell to your Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur.

far fa-clock

9am

IF YOU GO

A Weekend of Good in Gopeng, Malaysia

photo
Article contributors
A forgotten place, from a forgotten time, brought to life through community-based tourism. Help revive Gopeng, an old mining town in Malaysia.
A Weekend of Good in Gopeng, Malaysia
A Weekend of Good in Gopeng, Malaysia

Gopeng is quintessentially a Malaysian sleepy hollow. It’s a town that whispers to you, a far cry from the roar it had in the 19th and 20th centuries when it was a tin mining hot spot. Today Gopeng is one of Asia's top adventure destinations. From the heritage of this old mining town, a new haven of eco-tourism and adventure has been unearthed.

DON'T MISS

The town lies two hours away from Kuala Lumpur, and is near Ipoh. As old mining towns go this tranquil one boasts of rivers, caves, and limestone cliffs. 

It was the exact answer for me as I searched for a way to keep the centuries old way of life intact for the locals and the honouring of its history as a mining town.

Friday — Explore Gopeng’s heritage

Soy sauce making process at Hup Teck Soya Sauce Factory. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Soy sauce making process at Hup Teck Soya Sauce Factory. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

History meets craft at Gopeng. First up there is Hup Teck Soya Sauce Factory, one of the last surviving businesses from before the First World War. The secret to its survival lies in a fermentation technique for making soya sauce introduced by the late founder from Guangzhou, China. The heavy earthen pots are used for ageing the bean mixture. According to second-generation owner Low Pak Tong, "The pots absorb heat during the day to allow the fermentation to continue at night and their porous surface allows air circulation which enhances the intensity of the flavour.” These pots are at least a century old.

far fa-clock

11am - History's secret sauce

Locals hanging out at the newspaper stall in Gopeng town centre. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Locals hanging out at the newspaper stall in Gopeng town centre. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

As you enter the heart of Gopeng town where I would highly recommend that you walk… and walk… and walk… and allow the buildings and architecture to introduce themselves to you, one of the first things you’ll see is a roundabout with a Rafflesia emblem - once the site of Gopeng’s historic core. Nearby, a good number of pre-war buildings that survived a great fire in 1886 still exude an old-world grandeur, standing erect. What you see reflected in the original architecture is a legacy of Gopeng’s multi-ethnic settlers. The footprints of these people crisscross the tin mining town of old.

far fa-clock

12pm - Just keep walking

View from the first checkpoint of the Gaharu Tea Valley tour. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

View from the first checkpoint of the Gaharu Tea Valley tour. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

The high fortified wall (dubbed the Mini Great Wall of China) guarding Gaharu Tea Valley - Malaysia’s first and biggest organic plantation for gaharu, the Malay name for agarwood, may seem tacky, but Gopeng’s most-hyped attraction in recent years is quite fun. For just 10 Malaysian Ringgit (USD$2.20), you get to explore the 300-acre property in an air-conditioned van, and find out why gaharu is so highly prized (answer: it’s incredibly difficult to extract), hug a tree, enjoy stunning valley views from the panoramic stage, and sample gaharu ice-cream.

far fa-clock

3pm - The sweetness of Gaharu

Adeline Kuo. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Adeline Kuo. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Gopeng’s eco-tourism status is intact because back-to-nature resorts and “glamping” sites have mushroomed. One of the sharp business investors at the time built the Adeline Villa & Rest House, which is a must-visit accommodation site.

Adeline Villa & Rest House reception area. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Adeline Villa & Rest House reception area. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Set on a hilly terrain surrounded by rainforests, this dual-property, solar-power-fuelled accommodation has bamboo-styled rest houses, upscaled chalets and comfortable dorms to choose from - a far cry from its humble beginnings.

Way back in 2004, single parent and hairdresser Adeline Kuo saw the future of eco-tourism and opened up a barebones campsite as a way to earn a living and better support her children. You can’t help but admire her for her business savviness and grit.

Today, this bubbly lady employs more than 50 workers with some of them from the ‘underserved’ Semai Community who make up one per cent of Malaysia’s population. The Semai people were a formerly nomadic minority indigenous tribe famed for their forestry knowledge. Today they use that knowledge to contribute to eco-tourism and maintain the adventure activities of Gopeng. Adeline’s motto in life is simple, “When you make others happy, you are also happy.”

far fa-clock

5pm - Home in the hills

Breakfast at Adeline’s: Porridge with fried fish, fermented vegetables, braised peanuts, spring onions, anchovies on the side. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Breakfast at Adeline’s: Porridge with fried fish, fermented vegetables, braised peanuts, spring onions, anchovies on the side. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Knock yourself out at dinner with Adeline’s legendary village-style buffet. The ingredients are indigenously sourced. The local specialties include asam laksa, which is rice noodles in a spicy-sour broth, nasi ulam or rice salad, tau fu far  which is soya bean curd, barbeque, kueh (dessert snacks), and a whole lot more. A large gulp of cool mountain air is highly recommended after dinner. And the mountain also serves up some delights for the eye. Brilliant orange striped spiders, baby birds and glow-in-the-dark mushrooms.

far fa-clock

7pm - A meal in the mountain

Saturday — Go deep with sustainable initiativesa

A 10-minute drive on a narrow hillside road will bring you to Kampung Batu, one of five villages that make up Ulu Geroh, otherwise known as Gopeng’s gateway to fertile grounds of the Rafflesia, the world’s biggest flower. While not unique to this area, researchers say Ulu Geroh has the highest concentration of the Rafflesia, which blooms once every nine months and dies mere days later. 

One of many guides available, Bah Insan, is a Semai. Many Semai people resort to becoming tour guides as a way to improve their lives. That way the knowledge they have inherited from their ancestors also lives on.

Rafflesia in bloom. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Rafflesia in bloom. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

To get to the Rafflesia, you will go on a one-hour trek up the Leech Trail (which lives up to its name, so be prepared). The journey can be a little daunting - the trail is one continuous elevation, with some sections at a 45 degree angle - all worth it as you see the Rafflesia in full bloom.

Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing butterfly. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing butterfly. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

From here, you’ll proceed to a nearby site famous for spotting the rare Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing butterfly with metallic-green and black wings. Insan hopes to educate the public about Ulu Geroh’s biodiversity so that his community “can have a stronger voice to oppose activities that harm the forest.” A few years ago, he joined forces with the locals to petition against illegal logging and by winning that battle he has helped keep the forest and its wild inhabitants protected for the next generation.

far fa-clock

8am - Nature in bloom

Lunch being prepared. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Lunch being prepared. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

A scrumptious communal meal that the Semai womenfolk cook up using natural “utensils” like bamboo and firewood is the icing on the cake. Your host probably caught the fish from the nearby river the previous evening and foraged the jungle for ulam or wild ferns, to go with your rice and durian sambal, a pungent fermented condiment you’ll hate or love. Sorry, there really is no middle path with durian.

Lunch being prepared. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Anyam, or traditional weaving by the Semai. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Post-lunch, Insan’s sidekicks will treat you to an indigenous arts and crafts demonstration. Learn about anyam which translates to traditional weaving, as the ladies skilfully entwine coconut leaves into headgear and baskets. Be pleasantly surprised by the humane philosophy behind Semai hunting techniques; the sumpit, a bamboo blowpipe used to catch small animals, delivers instantaneous death, sparing them from prolonged agony.

far fa-clock

1pm - Leaf-ing a good taste

Museum Gopeng facade. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Museum Gopeng facade. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

On the way back, drop by Museum Gopeng, which only opens on weekends. Housed in a wooden building that originally served as the horse stables of tycoon Eu Kong (founder of a traditional Chinese medicine pharmaceutical known as Eu Yan Sang), the volunteer-run museum offers a charming look into Gopeng’s past. Rare photographs tracing Gopeng’s evolution from the 1850s, and vintage memorabilia such as mining equipment, rubber tapping tools and other collectibles all hang proudly. In capturing that part of history Gopeng pays homage to the community that helped make this town a rip roaring mining site.

While admission is free for now, donations for the upkeep of the museum are encouraged. Gopeng had other private museums which shuttered after the pandemic, highlighting the challenge of keeping these community-driven initiatives going.

far fa-clock

3pm - Days of old

Earth Camp jungle lounge. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Earth Camp jungle lounge. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Dinner and a night at Earth Camp is a must-do. This is a campsite and headquarters for outdoor adventure company Nomad Adventure. Located next to the scenic Kampar River, your commune with nature with the bare minimum. Fans and mosquito nets are all you will need - trust me that is more than enough. Designed with green building principles in mind, all the buildings have passive cooling systems, UV-resistant water tanks that are repurposed into low-carbon footprint toilets, and the attractive jungle lounge is made from recovered wood from 100- year-old shophouses. 

Nomad’s founder Chan Yuen-Li is the stuff of legends. She has been an outdoor lover whose past lives include stints as an award-winning environment journalist and competitive adventure racer, she captained the first Malaysian team to complete the Eco Challenge Morocco 1998, a multisport ten-day adventure that involved riding camels, kayaking and snow expeditions, among other things. 

More importantly, she established Gopeng as one of Asia’s top adventure destinations. She recruited her team by literally showing the locals photos of the sport, and asking, “Who can swim and wants to be a rafting guide?” 

These days, the company employs more than 50 people including part-timers, mostly locals from neighbouring villages. 

Nomad also invests significant resources into environmental education programmes and activities that benefit the community, such as clean-ups of illegal rubbish dumps, since Gopeng, like many small towns in Malaysia, still has no rubbish collection service.

far fa-clock

5pm - Setting up camp

Sunday — End on high adventure

Student Imran (left) and instructor Rafizi (right) at Nomad Adventure. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Student Imran (left) and instructor Rafizi (right) at Nomad Adventure. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

For your last day in Gopeng, it's a full-throttle adrenalin-pumping adventure ahead. White-water rafting is Nomad’s best seller. With 22 rapids, Kampar River offers everything from gentle flat-water rafting for the beginner, to tackling larger rapids for intermediate participants. Also popular: the unique ropes course at their Mountain School. 

Nestled in a scenic forested plot of land that’s partly surrounded by a limestone outcrop - with its own private cave - the “school” is really an adventure park that lets you choose from five high-ropes courses of varying levels of difficulty. Fun fact: when building the site, care was taken to ensure the original state was preserved - the durian trees with high-rise jumping-off platforms have been there since day one.

Durian trees at Nomad Adventure’s Mountain School are used for the outdoor learning courses. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

Durian trees at Nomad Adventure’s Mountain School are used for the outdoor learning courses. Photo by Teoh Eng Hooi.

As you test your balance on treetop suspension bridges, climb wobbly rope ladders, and glide across ziplines over limestone pinnacles and lush rainforest below, you will learn about and even surprise yourself. “Our mission is to provide an environment for participants to interact with nature through outdoor learning experiences,” says Yuen-Li. “Nature is our greatest teacher - a place to explore potential and discover purpose.”

I started out saying that Gopeng whispers to you. That’s how instincts also work for most of us – they come as whispers initially. You may wonder then what my travel tip is to you? I say, “Listen to your whispers. Trust your whispers. They rarely let you down.”

far fa-clock

9am - Adrenaline anytime

Meet Mak Ani, Rumah Tiang 16's chef

Mak Ani serves sumptuous forest-to-farm home cooking at Rumah Tiang 16, a boutique homestay in Lenggong, one of Malaysia’s four UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Mak Ani serves sumptuous forest-to-farm home cooking at Rumah Tiang 16, a boutique homestay in Lenggong, one of Malaysia’s four UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Mak Ani
Rumah Tiang 16
Off

“The first time I met Nash was in 2019. He came over to my neighbour Mak Lang’s house because he wanted to see how she made atap rumbia (thatched roof). It is a craft that requires skill. After that, he brought two guests who wanted to learn from Mak Lang. That was how I knew that Nash was the son of a Lenggong teacher, and after being overseas many years, he wanted to create tourism awareness amongst locals.  

After that first visit, he continued to bring more people. Somebody in the kampung would provide lunch while Mak Lang would serve the guests a sweet at the end of the meal, cendol sagu rumbia. I provided the sago using our harvest from sago palm trees in our garden. 

Then during one of the visits, Nash’s lunch caterer couldn’t make it. He asked me if I could do the cooking that day so that he could bring them over to my house instead of taking the guests to another place. 

Honestly, I panicked a little at the beginning. I had nothing fancy to serve the guests, no meat or chicken. But Nash told me, ‘No need. The guests are interested in eating something traditional, kampung cooking.’ He told me to just cook what my family eats, using whatever I have. So that’s how we began. We initially started at an old dangau (shelter) in my orchard that seats only a few people. Later we expanded it to cater for groups of 20 to 25 people. 

I really enjoy having guests come to my home. It gives me so much pleasure to see people from all over the world enjoying dishes that are unique to our kampung such as ikan pekasam, gulai rambutan, sambal nyior, masak lemak and many more. I learnt these dishes from my mother and grandmother before I got married.

I have not worked outside, as my responsibilities as a mother and homemaker take up all my time. In addition to taking care of my five children, I also look after our orchard, where we plant fruit trees, herbs and vegetables for our own consumption. One of my daughters helps me with the cooking for Rumah Tiang 16, so I get to pass on my skills and knowledge to her.

Before Nash came into the picture, we didn’t have many visitors to Lenggong even after the UNESCO award was given. Nash explained that his intention was to introduce Lenggong to the outside world. He said that we have a lot of history and culture and by sharing it, we can preserve the future of Lenggong. When he started, there were naysayers. But now they can see with their own eyes, there is a regular stream of visitors from both local and overseas.

I am happy I got to play a part in this change. 

We started working with Nash in 2019, but had to stop during the pandemic for more than a year. During that difficult period, we had to survive on my husband’s pension. Now that the borders have opened again and we are back in business, the extra income enables me to treat my family, buy clothes and give pocket money to my six grandchildren when they come back to Lenggong. 

We are very thankful to Nash for helping to bring all the visitors to Lenggong. We nicknamed Nash the tourism ambassador of Lenggong. I hope we will continue to work together so that our community will benefit from tourism and our town can prosper.”

Article contributors
Mak Ani serves sumptuous forest-to-farm home cooking at Rumah Tiang 16, a boutique homestay in Lenggong, one of Malaysia’s four UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Meet Mak Ani- Rumah Tiang 16's chef
Meet Mak Ani, Rumah Tiang 16's chef

Meet Nash, Rumah Tiang 16 host

Meet Nash, Rumah Tiang 16 host

Nash is the founder of Rumah Tiang 16, a boutique homestay in Lenggong, one of Malaysia’s four UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

Abdul Nasir Jalaludin, “Nash”, 52
Founder, Rumah Tiang 16
Off

“My dream is to see Lenggong become a model of community-based tourism. I’ve seen many examples of how tourism done right can bring prosperity to a community, and my hometown has so much to offer the world!

Because of my extensive exposure to hospitality with fine hotel brands for almost two decades and my own travels, I learned that culture is something that people cannot copy. I believe that promoting a cross-cultural experience is an important pillar of tourism. 

As a Pattani descendant, I try to inject cultural elements into the whole Rumah Tiang 16 experience. For the past few years, I’ve brought in locals to share their skills and knowledge in heritage crafts. 

Out of the nearly 300 guests of 25 nationalities I’ve hosted, 90 per cent are from other ethnicities. They are always curious about life in a traditional Malay kampung. I’ve seen the delight in their eyes when they try their hand at weaving, making bedak sejuk — a traditional Malay skin powder — when they’ve experienced a true forest-to-fork lunch, or the simple act of sarong donning! Many guests become self-appointed ambassadors, promoting Lenggong after the Rumah Tiang experience. This is my ‘booster jab.’ 

By showing locals that their traditions and heritage is invaluable, and considered a treasure by outsiders, I hope to encourage the younger generation to learn and inherit this precious heritage, turn it into a sustainable living, and carry it into the future. 

I am very lucky to come across a few families who are willing to share a piece of their lifestyle with visitors. Without them, I would not be able to come up with the quintessential Rumah Tiang 16 homestay experience that showcases the “stars” of Lenggong in archaeology, anthropology and ecology. 

Kampung folks are usually very shy. They don't have much, but they have enough. With rice and salt at hand, people in the rural area can survive. For their protein, they can just catch some fish or do some trapping for bush meat. The locals feel very happy that people from the world over come to experience the little things that they have. 

I truly believe the very essence of a nation lies in the pockets of the pockets of the rural population, in the interior, not in a big metropolis.

Article contributors
Nash is the founder of Rumah Tiang 16, a boutique homestay in Lenggong, one of Malaysia’s four UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Meet Nash, Rumah Tiang 16 host
Meet Nash, Rumah Tiang 16 host

All Soul and Spice: The Call of Kupang, Indonesia

Travel Inspiration
Story
Story
Story
Info
Info
Name of social enterprise
Cafe Inklusi
Is Shorthand Story
Off
Off

Enquire now

Keen to find out more for your next holiday? Fill in the form with your details and questions, and let Lakoat.Kujawas get back to you.

Your Details
Close
CAPTCHA

Upon submission, an account will be created for you using your given information, if you do not have one.

Visit Cafe Inklusi to get great local food and support the deaf community.

In Indonesia’s Kupang, Cafe Inklusi is part of a gastronomical and societal revolution - serving traditional cuisine made by the deaf.
All Soul and Spice: The Call of Kupang, Indonesia
All Soul and Spice: The Call of Kupang, Indonesia
Article contributors

The Magic of Kupang

To most travellers Kupang is a transit hub en route to hiking Mount Mutis in South Central Timor’s Mollo highlands, surfing Nemberala Beach in West Rote, or diving Alor’s coral reefs. 

But Indonesia’s southernmost city has its own wonderful charms. From natural splendours like sprawling tropical landscapes, swimming caves and waterfalls, to a scenic city steeped in centuries of history as a trading port, with a waterfront that sets the stage for an amazing sunset.

The Kupang Lighthouse, an historical landmark from the colonial past. The Dutch name for it is Ruïnes van de Oude Indië Pier in Koepang

The Kupang Lighthouse, an historical landmark from the colonial past. The Dutch name for it is Ruïnes van de Oude Indië Pier in Koepang.

To me though, Kupang is my other home. My maternal grandparents were from neighbouring Rote island, so Kupang was their gateway to the world. 

I grew up with “Bahasa Kupang” (Timorese Malay), Rotinese songs whose lyrics I’ve yet to memorise, my great-grandmother’s handmade textiles and faded stories of the Timor and Rote my grandparents remembered: pristine beaches, sugar palms, horses and church. As a foodie, one of my regrets growing up was never having the opportunity to savour my great-grandparents’ West Timorese cuisine.

This is what brought me to Kupang's shores - to discover a missing part of my heritage.

It’s a good time to be a foodie in Kupang. A gastronomic revival has drawn many to the city’s distinct culinary heritage. West Timorese cuisine centres around aged maize, fragrant endemic herbs and the local specialty - se’i, Timorese smoked meat, a dish that’s rising in popularity in Indonesia. These flavours are being appreciated in smokehouses, restaurants and hawker centres—by Kupang’s population of 450,000 as well as tourists.

The Kupang Lighthouse, an historical landmark from the colonial past. The Dutch name for it is Ruïnes van de Oude Indië Pier in Koepang

The se’i method smokes meat on beams of Ceylon oak and river tamarind wood, covered with their leaves. The result is a deep pink meat with a bold and spicy smoky flavour.

There is one special place in Kupang that does more than just delight my tastebuds. It tugs at my heart strings as well. 

Artisan coffee bar Cafe Inklusi (CafeIn) serves Timorese fusion dishes and native coffee from all over the Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) province. They also serve a great cause. Employing predominantly deaf cooks and baristas, CafeIn’s mission is to transform Kupang’s food and beverage (F&B) landscape into an inclusive intercultural space to bond over food and coffee.

My mission: to meet these people, learn from them, make new friends and reconnect with my heritage.

The CafeIn crew sign hello.

The CafeIn crew sign hello.

Meet Cafe Inklusi

“Warming people’s bellies with food is the simplest form of happiness.” Sischa Solokana is proud of her establishment which she co-founded in 2019 with her cousin Kichi Jacob.

Back then, it was called Kopi Saa. Today it has expanded to become Cafe Inklusi, with the cafe operating in Dekranasda, the province’s colourful handicraft centre. With Sischa now a member of the Indonesian Chef Association, and Kichi a certified barista, Kopi Saa lives on as their F&B training programme.

There haven’t been many options before for Kupang’s deaf community to find jobs, so CafeIn, along with its weekly training, provides them with an opportunity to be empowered, engaged and to have something to care about.

Kopi Saa/Cafe Inklusi co-founders: Kichi Jacob (left) in the CafeIn barista apron and Sischa Solokana in the Indonesian Chef Association uniform.

Kopi Saa/Cafe Inklusi co-founders: Kichi Jacob (left) in the CafeIn barista apron and Sischa Solokana in the Indonesian Chef Association uniform.

The heart of the operation are the 2023 CafeIn crew -  An Mone, Daniel Yohanis, Frengki Riwu, Misel Elik and Tanel Loa, who are deaf, as well as the hearing Doni Kopong and Nona Saekoko.

CafeIn’s working language is BISINDO, an Indonesian sign language. Currently only Sischa and Kichi speak English. Diners who do not know Indonesian can communicate using apps like Google Translate.

As an amateur cook, I suggested an intercultural cookout, experimenting the Timorisation of my and Sischa’s favourite Western recipes with the deaf community.

Sischa and Kichi respond delightfully. “Let’s do this!”

A Timorese culinary excursion

What is “Timorising” fusion cuisine? For Sischa it is all about adapting locally.

“We aim to serve dishes that are familiar to most travellers, but with a novel twist. We use local ingredients whenever possible. Timorese parsley instead of rosemary. Virgin coconut oil instead of olive oil.” 

“Timorising” requires an understanding of authentic Timorese flavours, so CafeIn invites me to a food excursion at artisan smokehouse Se’i Baun in Kupang’s outskirts. An important part of training at CafeIn, Sischa says, excursions help staff learn from other businesses.

Se’i is the centrepiece of Timorese cuisine. Commonly pork, se’i could also be beef, fish or chicken produced with the same smoking technique: on Ceylon oak or river tamarind wood and leaves. 

Its smoky taste is bold and bacon-y like hickory but muskier and spicier. It tints meat deep pink like cherrywood. Se’i Baun’s cinderblock furnaces spread a delicious barbecue scent of smoking premium free-range pork.

Pork se’i has a fuller-bodied smokiness and thicker cuts. Se’i Baun is served with a blazing traditional chilli-citrus relish sambal lu’at, as well as smoked ribs, and a stir-fry of bitter greens. 

An excellent se’i meal is both earthy and zesty. Fiery and buttery. Succulent and hearty. 

A cook at the Se’i Baun smokehouse puts fresh pork on the smoking furnace while directing the junior staff.

A cook at the Se’i Baun smokehouse puts fresh pork on the smoking furnace while directing the junior staff.

Kichi, who created se’i based cocktail Royal 1917, says se’i was invented in colonial times. Plantation labourers left home months at a time and needed to feed their children while away. Hence the invention of se’i, fermented sambal lu’at and aged maize jagung bose—all which keep for months without refrigeration.

Founder, Kichi Jacob’s Royal 1917 is a beef se’i infused whiskey cocktail with a creamy texture and refreshing citrus and basil flavour. Accompanying it is a micro serving of beef se’i and sambal lu’at.

Founder, Kichi Jacob’s Royal 1917 is a beef se’i infused whiskey cocktail with a creamy texture and refreshing citrus and basil flavour. Accompanying it is a micro serving of beef se’i and sambal lu’at.

A Timorese fusion experiment

While se’i cannot be cooked in CafeIn’s kitchen, it is Sischa’s favourite ingredient for fusion creations. CafeIn is applying for Halal certification and only serves locally sourced halal se’i

At CafeIn, Sischa demonstrates cooking beef se’i Alfredo and tuna se’i aglio e olio spaghetti for the CafeIn staff, who take turns helping her. Neither dish contains added salt or olive oil, with Se’i and virgin coconut oil being used instead. Coconut cream substitute for cooking cream in the Alfredo. Aromatic leaf celery substitute for European parsley. 

Now it’s my turn to lead, and as I knead the dough, I pique An’s interest. She loves to bake but is new to bread, so I invite her to shape submarine rolls together. Her eyes light up as the dough expands. 

Born and raised in Kupang, 19-year-old An recently graduated from high school. CafeIn is An’s first workplace, but she has been cooking since primary school.

“My mother taught me to be independent, including being able to feed myself. I felt happy and proud when my mother came home from work and I have dinner ready for her.” 

An adds that she loves fish dishes, jagung bose porridge and sambal lu’at—the hotter, the better.

Grace and An make submarine rolls. An loves to bake but this is her first time making bread from scratch

Grace and An make submarine rolls. An loves to bake but this is her first time making bread from scratch.

Up next, Daniel, Tanel and Frengki prepare roast chicken. 

Originally from Soe, South Central Timor, 19-year-old Daniel has had a traumatic childhood. He and his mother endured violence from his father, who did not accept having a deaf child. After Daniel’s parents separated, the 11-year-old boy walked alone from Soe to Kupang, about 110 kilometres, to find his mother.

Daniel has since graduated from high school and developed a passion for brewing coffee. Overcoming trauma is an ongoing challenge, but having joined CafeIn in April, he now has a chance to feel appreciated and let his talents shine, in the presence of positive role models like Sischa and Kichi.

Locals may recognise 27-year-old Tanel as a BISINDO interpreter for a national television network. But Tanel wasn’t always busy with two jobs. “I used to have difficulties finding a job, but CafeIn gave me and my deaf friends a chance to make something of our lives and contribute towards a more inclusive NTT Province.”

Previously aspiring to become a photographer, today Tanel looks at the barista profession as his future. Tanel finds his barista apprenticeship at CafeIn a much more fruitful pursuit than photography. He recollects the frustrations he felt in photography spaces that assumed all photographers were hearing. 

Tanel is currently saving to open his own cafe. “Baristas are cool. I am proud to be a deaf barista."

(Left to right) Baristas Daniel, Frengki and Tanel step out of their comfort zones and rise to the cooking challenge.

(Left to right) Baristas Daniel, Frengki and Tanel step out of their comfort zones and rise to the cooking challenge.

Back in the CafeIn kitchen, we work on Timorising my favourite roast chicken recipe. We use limes instead of lemons, and Timorese herbs instead of rosemary and thyme.

The red stemmed Timorese basil is fresh, spicy and sweet with hints of licorice. Sipa is a peppery, minty mini-parsley with an intense palate-cleansing punch. The citrusy and nutty cilantro is also a Timorese staple, and a first for my roast chicken.

Frengki panics as I demonstrate peeling garlic. “Slow down,” he signs. Sischa later informs me that Frengki lost his hearing in an accident, so he fears sharp objects.

After becoming deaf, Frengki used to lock himself at home, but over time and with support he found more confidence and employment. 

“Even when I got hired by CafeIn, my parents were initially sceptical, because deaf workers often get paid less than they’re worth. But now that I’m paid what I’m worth, I have my parents’ blessing.”

(Left to right) Baristas Daniel, Frengki and Tanel step out of their comfort zones and rise to the cooking challenge.

Stuffed and salted! A chicken is ready to roast.

Hours later, we completed the dinner spread with guacamole-roast chicken sandwiches, a refreshing cucumber-grape salad with Timorese honey vinaigrette, and jagung bose porridge cooked in bone broth from today’s roast chicken, coconut milk and beef se’i bits.

I am pleased with our creations, and so are my new friends.

“Making roast chicken was fun! I didn’t know garlic, citrus and green flowers make chicken taste good,” says Daniel, who had only “cooked” instant noodles before.

As a first-timer in a deaf space, I feel truly included in my new friends’ generous spirit. Cooking together meant we were all out of our comfort zones: mine linguistically and theirs culinarily. Yet in this feast of few words, food becomes a common ground for us to bond past our cultural differences.

Making new friends and bonding over food.

Making new friends and bonding over food.

Future Focus

CafeIn staff are meant to “graduate” within a year or two and continue their careers elsewhere. Frengki, Tanel and Daniel plan to open their own cafés. Misel, also a makeup artist, is saving to open her own salon. Nona and Doni plan to attend university.

An is still figuring out her future, but as her paralysed mother’s caretaker she plans to provide a good retirement for her parents.

“I am grateful. With skills gained from CafeIn, I feel secure about my future,” says An.

While the staff continue to grow in skills and confidence, CafeIn is evolving as well. In their bid to continue advocating for inclusivity in the F&B sector, they have formed a training partnership with a local special needs school.

In the near future, they also intend to hire employees with other disabilities, or hearing/able-bodied employees with disadvantages such as school leavers, young people fleeing from abusive homes, and those from low-income families.

And in mid 2023 Cafe Inklusi will open a second location in Tedis Beach, a trendy district near the waterfront at the Old City district.

“Please come! We serve good dishes and beverages. Come get to know us,” says An. 

CafeIn is closed on Sundays, except for secret menu bookings made in advance. This gives you access to dishes not on the daily menu, and helps CafeIn tailor the ingredients to your dietary requirements. 

 

A Full Belly and Full Heart

CafeIn has been a rare opportunity for me to engage in a deaf space. Not always easy for me, who is used to long conversations. What I learnt was that at CafeIn food is just as powerful a tool for building friendships. 

Unlike almost everything else in life, food is a space where it doesn't matter who is hearing or deaf. Even in near silence, in this space we are just fellow cooks, eaters and human beings enjoying the pleasures of life together.

Ready to feast: a whole day of cooking followed by 10 minutes of eating.

Ready to feast: a whole day of cooking followed by 10 minutes of eating.

CafeIn’s menu might not look like my great-grandparents’ traditional cooking, but their Timor-inspired fusion creations speak so primally to my diasporic soul. A piece of my heritage—our common heritage—is present in the dishes in a way that I am proud to call my own.

Our “Timorising” experiment has been more than just flavours to me: it is an expression of my identity as a world citizen with roots in Kupang, made special by a group of new friends in this special city who show me what the Inklusi (inclusive) spirit truly means.

I hope in due time, the hearing world will learn to reciprocate.

THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE

While Kupang may well be known for its old world charms, colonial history and its position as a great transit for the dive, sand and sea holiday, today it is gaining recognition as a culinary destination. 

Helping put Kupang on the food map is Cafe Inklusi - in a very special way. When you visit Cafe Inklusi your act of eating there and supporting the staff will go a long way in helping deaf baristas and cooks. The hearing founders of Kopi Saa/Cafe Inklusi Kichi Jacob and Sischa Solokana hire only the members of the deaf community in Kupang. The training they get will go a long way in helping them secure a bright future.

'We want to eliminate the harm being caused by unregulated tourism.'

A man stands before a large photograph of a red panda

Shantanu is the director and project head of Habre's Nest, a wildlife travel enterprise on a mission to protect the red panda. 

Shantanu Prasad
Habre's Nest
Off

“I’ve had four years of experience in this region before we set up Habre’s Nest here in Kaiakata. Under the parent organisation Forest Dwellers, Habre’s Nest was our first project which is also rooted in sustainable tourism around rare species. While the red panda is our flagship animal, our intention is to protect the entire habitat. We undertake work where work is required but not enough is being done.

We decided to base our interventions here in Singalila because the belt extending from Nepal to the Indian states of Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh onwards to Bhutan, Myanmar, and China, is the best remaining habitat for red pandas in the wild. Singalila can be considered the epicentre of red panda distribution and could play a vital role in enabling the fragments to connect.

We chose Kaiakata even though the weather can be harsh at times because the views are unobstructed and it is surrounded by greenery on the Nepal and Indian side of the border which increases the probability of sighting the red panda.

We've captured more than 4,000 photographs of wild red pandas over a period of four years through tourism and achieved 98 per cent sighting of the red panda for our guests since 2016.

Our goal is to assign this area the status of a red panda reserve, which would aid with conservation while continuing to track and document red pandas and hosting tourists who might be inspired to do something on their own. We want to continue working with government authorities towards improved regulation within and around the national park to minimise and eventually, eliminate the harm being caused by unregulated tourism.”

Read more about Habre's Nest here.  

Article contributors
Shantanu is the director and project head of Habre's Nest, a wildlife travel enterprise on a mission to protect the red panda.
A man stands before a large photograph of a red panda
'We want to eliminate the harm being caused by unregulated tourism.'

A Weekend of Good in Ho Chi Minh City

photo
Article contributors
In the cultural heart of Vietnam, a wealth of experiences await curious visitors. We share the best historic spots and future-driven flavours to spend 48 hours.
A Weekend of Good in Ho Chi Minh City
A Weekend of Good in Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), locally referred to by its old name Saigon, is one of Asia’s most fascinating cities. Home to about 9 million people, the bustling metropolis in Vietnam’s south is a colourful juxtaposition of old and new with east and west.

DON’T MISS

The city’s rich imperial and colonial past can be found in its architecture, ubiquitous street coffee culture and hole-in-the-wall eateries serving up some of the most delicious and affordable local and international cuisine in the region 

But Saigon is more than its colourful past. Rapid development has brought with it skyscrapers, modernised public transport — rent a public bicycle, take the water bus or even hop on the upcoming metro line — and a lively arts and events scene.

Friday —Explore the old and new

Set out for District 1 (D1), the city centre and default starting point for most travellers to Saigon. If you’d like to base yourself here, look out for Caravelle Saigon, a city icon. Built in 1959, it was one of the country’s icons of modernity, and it is currently only one of two EarthCheck-certified hotels in the whole country. 

D1 is home to many of the city’s colonial-era monuments, including the Saigon Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral. Both are located within walking distance from each other, and a stone’s throw away from shopping malls, streetside coffee shops, and markets selling assorted goods in all colours and tastes — a contrast of old and new that will be a recurring theme throughout your trip. 

If you are feeling energised, it’s possible to cover most of D1 within a day with TNGO’s Public Bicycle System app, allowing you to seamlessly navigate the city’s many alleys – some hidden – exhaust-free.

Some of Saigon’s more iconic restaurants and cafes can be found in D1, alongside popular family establishments and street vendors. If you’re not ready to take the plunge into Vietnamese street cuisine, head to Blanc. Restaurant for lunch. 

The restaurant serves a fusion of cuisines in a modern setting — think duck breast served with butternut squash puree, Vietnamese basil, starfruit, bamboo shoots and ginger fish sauce. With a few set menus to choose from, helpful staff are on hand to help you make a decision. 

And you may notice the menus come with illustrations featuring Ho Chi Minh City sign language (one of three Vietnamese sign languages) for each dish — which you are encouraged to use instead of speaking. Blanc. Restaurant employs staff who have hearing disabilities. According to the restaurant, about 65 to 70 per cent of deaf and hearing-impaired people in Vietnam are unemployed, and the restaurant was opened to give people with hearing disabilities a chance to earn a living. 

far fa-clock

1pm - Start at the centre

Make your way to District 10 (D10), a short ride away from D1. On your way, notice the colonial buildings and wandering tourists giving way to a vibrant residential district filled with rows of traditional shophouses, juxtaposed with modern malls and office buildings. D10 is one of those districts where the main roads lead to smaller roads that hide alleys that lead to even more alleys, each with their own little secrets.

Nestled along a single-lane road is the Fito Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine. Founded by Dr Le Khac Tam in 2003, the private museum showcases the evolution of Vietnam’s traditional medicine, a part of its heritage that dates back thousands of years. The museum’s architecture reflects the styles of some of the ethnic minority groups in Vietnam like the Chams, including a Champa temple on the fifth floor. You can also find original traditional instruments and other prehistoric artefacts, including some from the Stone Age.

far fa-clock

3pm - Explore history and tradition

For dinner, head back to D1 and make for Organik Kitchen Saigon. In true east-meets-west style, your first dinner in Saigon could be a falafel pita sandwich, a bacon salad, or even an Italian margherita pizza, all under USD$6-$7. Besides their plant-based offerings, what’s even more memorable about this vegan establishment is the revolving door of live music performances, stand-up comedy shows, art exhibitions and charity fundraisers within its premises, which it shares with Indika Saigon, an indie bar and events space. Enjoy a house made tropical rum punch as you soak in your first night in Saigon.

far fa-clock

6pm - Enjoy an evening of fusion

Saturday — The city within a city

Ready for a break from the chaotic energy of Saigon? 

Dong Nai Province, home to Cat Tien National Park (Vườn Quốc Gia Cát Tiên), is an ideal escape into nature. The national park is about 150km from Saigon’s D1, a five-hour bus ride away. 

At 738sqkm, Cat Tien National Park is about the size of Singapore, and home to Ta Lai village where the Ma, Tay and Stieng ethnic communities live. Primates like the native golden-cheeked gibbon and pygmy slow loris, as well as sun bears and leopard cats, including a thousand species of birds, can also be found at the national park. Endangered creatures like Asian elephants, Sunda pangolins and the Siamese crocodile can also be spotted. 

In the park, you can visit the Cat Tien Bear and Wildlife Rescue Station, Bau Sau Crocodile Lake or go on an Animal Night Safari. Better yet, consider an overnight stay at Ta Lai Longhouse, an initiative by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) to support the Ta Lai communities by developing their capacities to guide travellers on ecotourism activities like trekking, kayaking and fishing. 

These opportunities enable communities to improve their livelihoods and better access essentials like education. Thirty per cent of the bill from your stay is donated to their community development fund which provides job opportunities and supports community projects.

far fa-clock

7am - Venture to the wild side

If you prefer to stay in Saigon, check out Thu Duc City; in 2020, Districts 2 and 9 in Saigon were merged to form Thu Duc, effectively a new city in a city. 

An up-and-coming major economic zone and technology hub in Vietnam, Thu Duc can be reached via the futuristic-looking Thu Thiem 2 bridge. Its glass-walled skyscrapers, al fresco dining establishments serving international cuisine and high-end serviced apartments are a world away from the colonial buildings and shophouses of Saigon. You may even spot a few metro stations — the city’s first metro line, which runs through Thu Duc, is set to open in 2023. 

Saigon Outcast, located just on the edge of the expat enclave of Thao Dien, is an excellent hideout from the concrete modernity of Thu Duc. An authentic and welcoming ambience awaits those seeking a touch of bohemianism with a dash of adventure with a rock-climbing wall greeting you near the entrance. At this alternative events space, don’t miss the Thao Dien Flea Market on Saturdays with pop-up stores by local artists, artisans, and microbusinesses selling their crafts and products. These include colourful cookies from the Little Rose Bakery, an initiative by the Ho Chi Minh City Child Welfare Association to protect and empower underprivileged girls at The Little Rose Warm Shelter.

far fa-clock

11am - Visit the future

A short walk away and you’ll see The Factory, a centre for contemporary arts with a facade made from parts of shipping containers. Opened in 2016 by Vietnamese artist Tia-Thuy Nguyen, The Factory is a social enterprise with workshops, live arts, talks, film screenings, and other initiatives to connect and develop cross-cultural dialogue. The profits from the sale of artworks or products are mainly used to fund the running costs of these programmes.If you’re ready for some shopping, head to boutiques in Thao Dien like Purr Nature where you can find eco-friendly products made by local artisans. These range from handmade face masks to organic honey, and all proceeds go towards operating the Purr Shelter, a home for orphaned and abandoned kittens. You can also look for The Organik House nearby if you’re searching for alternatives to everyday plastic items.

far fa-clock

2pm - Shop social

Make your way back to D1, where the (by now) familiar scents of suon nuong (grilled pork ribs) and nuoc mam (fish sauce) wafting around the streets will remind you that it’s almost time for dinner.

Eating local is part of any quintessential travel experience, but go a step further with Noir. Dining in the Dark, where you dine in darkness to experience the world the way a person with visual disabilities does. 

Run by the same organisation behind Blanc. Restaurant, Noir. Dining in the Dark works closely with the Blind Association Centre in HCMC and other partner organisations supporting people with visual disabilities, providing employment to this community.

The menu, which is also available in braille, comes in three categories: From the East, From the West, and Vegetarian. They all comprise a starter, a main course, and dessert. Through it all, you will be assisted by a food guide, to whom you can explain your dietary restrictions and food preferences, for a custom menu, and a one of a kind sensory experience.

far fa-clock

7pm - Dine in the dark

Sunday — Cooling down

Start your Sunday with breakfast at the Green Bamboo Kitchen, also run by the Ho Chi Minh City Child Welfare Association. 

The Green Bamboo was founded in 1993 as a beacon of hope for hundreds of homeless boys in the city by providing them with opportunities and support to lead them toward a stable life. By rehabilitating the boys’ mental and physical health to reintegrate them into society, they have been able to pursue education and even employment opportunities.

The dishes are typically Vietnamese home-cooked meals within the USD$1-$2 price range. According to head chef Ms Thu, the kitchen’s operations took a hit during the COVID-19 pandemic, and they switched to a delivery-only model. However, she aims to resume dining in by the end of 2022.

far fa-clock

10am - Breakfast that gives back

The city is notorious for its unforgiving heat during the dry season from March to May but luckily, there are many ways to keep yourself hydrated. From streetside sinh to (smoothies) carts, to a vast array of coffeeshops dishing out glasses of ca phe da (Vietnamese iced coffee) and even free water dispensers along the streets – you’ll never go thirsty in Saigon. 

Enjoy a scenic 15-20 minute ride down Hoang Sa street, which flanks the Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe canal, before crossing the bridge towards Phu Nhuan District, another vibrant district popular with young locals due to its numerous secret cafes and juice bars dotting the main commercial street, Phan Xich Long. One such cafe is Fin Saigon, a Vietnamese boutique coffee brand using Robusta beans grown sustainably by farming communities across the country, including the renowned coffee and tea producing regions of Lam Dong and Gia Lai in the central highlands. 

Fin Saigon is located on the ground floor of an apartment building and it is the perfect place to find the ultimate souvenir from Vietnam: grab some  locally-grown Robusta coffee beans and a filter, and make your own ca phe phin (traditional Vietnamese filtered coffee) when you’re home, dreaming of your next trip back.

far fa-clock

1pm - Enjoy the city’s rich cafe culture

A Himalayan escape that empowers

Story
Story
Story
Info
Info
Name of social enterprise
The Goat Village
Is Shorthand Story
Off
Off

Enquire now

Keen to find out more for your next holiday? Fill in the form with your details and questions, and let Lakoat.Kujawas get back to you.

Your Details
Close
CAPTCHA

Upon submission, an account will be created for you using your given information, if you do not have one.

Visit the Goat Village

Amid high-altitude alpine beauty, rest and relax in this retreat run with pride by residents working to ensure their way of life survives into the future.
A Himalayan escape that empowers
A Himalayan escape that empowers
Article contributors

Amid high-altitude alpine beauty, rest and relax in this rural retreat run with pride by residents working to ensure their way of life survives into the future.

MEET THE GOAT VILLAGE

A Himalayan escape that empowers

As I neared the end of a scenic, six-and-a-half-hour car ride from the airport, the anticipation level was high.

I was at Raithal, a village nestled at 1,800m above sea level in the cradle of the Himalayas. At last.

Well, almost. The ride was followed by a 400m uphill walk to the destination (an off-the-grid farmstay) — a walk guaranteed to be a wake-up call for anyone leading a sedentary lifestyle.

Upon arrival at the Goat Village (Dayara Bugyal), Priyanka, a Raithal native, supervisor of the farmstay, welcomes the weary and breathless with a fragrant glass of warm water brewed with local herbs and spices.

The cool, alpine air is bracing for the spirit. Located in the north Indian state of Uttarakhand, Raithal is typically a base for trekkers making their way to Dayara Bugyal, a meadow at an elevation of 3,000m to 4,000m, where seasonal and wild flowers bloom year round.

But the village itself deserves more than a passing mention. Crisp, clear, postcard-perfect views of the snow-capped Himalayas allow even non-trekkers to take in their majesty. And it is here that the Goat Village has set up base to help the locals tap the potential of agro-tourism — agricultural tourism — while preserving the region’s pristine beauty and long history.

ALL OR NOTHING

A Himalayan escape that empowers

For the active travellers, a day hike to Dayara Bugyal (elevation: 3,200m) is the obvious way to pass time at Raithal. Hikers cover 18km there and back, and the hike is a (heart-pumping) window into the natural world and a chance to learn about local herbs, plants and birds. You are also encouraged to pick up trash along the route, which can be disposed of properly upon returning to the village.

Those preferring a gentler pace can enjoy the peaceful grounds of the Goat Village, or explore Raithal’s stepped lanes, which hold a trove of local lore. Lined on either side with traditional houses made from deodar – cedars native to the Himalayas – and punctuated by newer dwellings of brick and mortar, the streets tell a revealing story of a village caught between tradition and modernity.

Less strenuous walks can be taken around the village, where you can take in glorious views of millet fields cut into steep-sided hills wreathed in mist.

Different lodgings are available to suit various tastes. There are elegantly cozy cottages for those who crave privacy, with dormitories for budget travellers, and the whole farm accommodates just 20 to 25 people at a time. Rooms come with double beds and bathrooms with direct water supply.

Designed and built for low energy consumption, only the dining area and kitchen are powered by electricity, while rooms have solar lamps and candles.

In recent years, the serenity is punctuated by a buzzy romance: a grand mass wedding ceremony of goats (yes, goats) from more than 30 villages in Uttarakhand.

Known as Bakri Swayamwar by the locals, a female goat chooses the “most eligible” male goat from a group of prospective “grooms”, in a nod to women’s empowerment.

The event is meant to instill pride in goat farming, and to educate farmers about improving the gene pool of mountain goats for healthier offspring and milk.

The next goat wedding takes place in late March 2020.

THE GREEN PEOPLE

The Goat Village (Dayara Bugyal) is one of several boutique farm-stays initiated by The Green People, a volunteer-driven enterprise that supports agro-tourism in rural Uttarakhand. Their goal? To encourage non-locals and locals to lead more sustainable lifestyles, while arresting the flow of migration to the cities, which has decimated rural villages.

Locals like Priyanka are provided with training in hospitality, and The Green People lease the land from local landowners like Harbeer, who is now also part of Priyanka’s team.

Sustainable tourism offers village youth an alternative to taking up odd, unskilled jobs in cities like Dehradrun (home to the nearest airport) and New Delhi, where they typically live in squalid conditions.

The Goat Village works by getting locals to feel invested in the project. For example, the community at Raithal has only been growing potatoes, soy, wheat and kidney beans, but now they’re reviving the cultivation of medicinal plants, flowers, vegetables and fruits that are native to the terrain and climate.

The locally-grown and locally-sourced grains, millets and pulses, as well as preserves such as honey are then sold as indigenous superfoods under the brand of Bakri Chaap, providing farmers with a direct link to their market.

STANDING TALL

A Himalayan escape that empowers

Walking through Raithal, one would be hard-pressed to miss Panchpura, a 500-year-old ancestral house in the middle of the village. No longer able to accommodate the family that owns it — incidentally, the family Priyanka is descended from — the house now stands empty.

But it has withstood earthquakes as well as changing times, remaining a proud witness to the village’s history, and its people’s determination to keep their traditions alive and relevant. High above the madding crowd in the lofty arms of the Himalayas, its honey-hued walls stand waiting, for new generations of visitors — and whatever the future brings. 

“For us the city is an attractive place to be. Through the Goat Village, the idea that villages can be attractive and lucrative too is starting to take root.”

Priyanka Rana Farm supervisor, the Goat Village (Dayara Bugyal)

THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE

Through initiatives by The Green People, rural communities are able to tap the potential of their land for sustainable tourism, and take ownership of their livelihoods.

When you stay at any of their partner villages, you provide additional, stable income for the communities, and allow the sustainable tourism model to take root and flourish, thus preventing rural communities from having to uproot to urban areas to take up low-skilled jobs.