Charlie’s Cafe dishes up Malaysian favourites like nasi lemak and Sarawak laksa with heart — diners can pay it forward by buying a dining voucher, which are displayed on a wall within easy reach for anyone in need of a proper meal. The cafe also hires ex-offenders to help them make a fresh start.
Desonny Tuzan
Charlie's Cafe
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“I wanted to do something where we could partner with customers to contribute to society. One day, I came across a video about a guy in New York who was a banker, but had quit his job to open a pizza parlour (Rosa’s Fresh Pizza) where he introduced the ‘Pay It Forward’ programme. So I was inspired to try that concept here in Malaysia.
We thought it would just be a small wall of vouchers. We didn’t expect that the whole wall would end up being filled with them! There was even a time that we stopped collecting new vouchers, until we had distributed all the meals to people in need.
I hire [ex-offenders] to work in kitchen roles...When I sit down with someone who wants to change, that look in their eyes is compelling enough.
Although I was not an ex-offender, I made many mistakes in the workplace in my early years. I once made a big mistake and absconded for a few months, but my boss kept a lookout for me and invited me back to work for him. That made an impact and I thought if this man could give me a chance, I should be able to do the same for someone else.
There was a man who walked into Charlie’s Cafe one Saturday and asked, 'Sir, can I get a meal from you? I’m jobless and I need a meal… actually, I need two. One for me, and one for my son.'
I said okay – no questions asked. Then he said, ‘Do you remember me? I once came here and bought a Pay It Forward voucher. But I made some bad decisions and am now in debt.’
Initially, he wanted to hide outside to have his meal but I told him not to do so as I wanted him to sit in like a customer, and eat like a customer.
I look back on this encounter and am glad that someone in his situation knew Charlie’s Cafe was a place where he could seek help in a time of need.”
Dezonny owns Charlie's Cafe, which serves up Malaysian favourites with heart — diners can pay it forward by giving a dining voucher to someone in need.
Bike with Elena is an eco-friendly way to explore Kuala Lumpur’s historic and cultural gems, founded by an avid cyclist who is championing for a more bike-friendly KL. Part of the tour proceeds go towards the conservation of a 100-year-old Kampung Baru home.
Elena Mei Yun
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“Cycling is a great way to get around as many old areas are turning into one-way streets – so it’s actually more practical to go on a bike. Another reason is being able to take in the finer details and go for a closer look. If you’re in a car, you tend to whizz past things – like people carrying baskets on their head in Kampung Baru, or why there are cigarettes in the shrine of the deity ‘Datuk Kong’ (or Na Tuk Kong).
It's also fun to stop and chat with the locals. For example, we were once cycling through Kampung Baru and came across a ‘Cukur Jambul’ (traditional Malay hair-cutting ceremony for babies). From a distance, the festivities made it seem like a wedding – plus, we had never seen a Cukur Jambul until that day. We observed prayers from the Quran being recited before the hair-cutting ceremony, followed by a time of feasting.
There’s a lot to keep up with as changes keep occurring. For instance, many old Hainanese cafes have disappeared and been converted to modern hipster cafes. That means the elderly Chinese people who used to gather at these cafes after their tai chi class, no longer do so.
Of all the Kampung Baru houses, I found Puan Napsiah’s home was deteriorating most quickly. I noticed her roof leaking every time it rained, especially during the monsoon season. At one point, she asked for my help to gather some canvas banners – and I realised she wanted to place them on the roof to prevent water from seeping in. It was then that I decided to channel some of my tour proceeds towards repairing her 100-year-old kampung home.
The trigger to turn my passion into a business came when I had a bicycle accident while commuting a few years ago. That made me desire better bike infrastructure for Kuala Lumpur. So I thought, what better way to make the government realise the value of good bike infrastructure than to show that there's revenue to be generated from a business like mine?”
Friends of Orchha is a social enterprise that works with local families to open their homes to travellers, to create more sustainable livelihoods.
Kiran and Surendra
Orchha
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"The house feels empty when there are no guests staying over – that’s how comfortable we’ve gotten with having tourists staying with us.
We were the first of the two families who agreed to be a part of the homestay initiative. It was a financially difficult time and we were struggling to make ends meet and have even one meal a day.
There were some others in the village who cautioned us against going forward citing that this may be a ruse for ‘outsiders’ to steal our houses from us. We were concerned but we didn’t have much else to lose and wanted to be hopeful for the sake of our two children.
Eventually, tourists began coming to our village and started staying with us. Our means to provide for our children gradually began to improve. The homestay has offered us immense exposure to people as well as cultures that are unique and different from our own.
Some tourists who stayed with us have helped my kids with their homework, especially in English and Maths. My children have benefited in so many ways from having tourists from around the world and within India stay with us. They’ve become confident. They speak more comfortably in English. They are better informed about things as they happen around the world, because they get to interact with the guests.”
Kiran and Surendra are homestay hosts under Friends of Orchha, which works with local families to open their homes to travellers, to create more sustainable livelihoods.
Reality Tours and Travel is a travel social enterprise that empowers locals to lead tours around their community. It also channels 80 per cent of its profits back to the community.
Jitu
27, guide, Reality Tours and Travel
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“I used to work at a garment factory within Dharavi before joining Reality Tours and Travel (RTT). I was a supervisor and would watch small groups of people, mostly foreigners, being taken through Dharavi. I speak fluent English, so I went and met with the team at Reality. That was around five years ago and that’s how long I have been working as a guide here.
Forty-two per cent of Mumbai lives in slums and somehow the only picture that gets painted is about despair. I have lived here and spent my entire childhood in Dharavi. I hadn’t known life here to be one of despair! If anything, it’s one of hope. I have grown up watching everyone around me work hard and make the most of their day to earn an honest living wage. I used to think that it was the same even outside of Dharavi. That everyone was enterprising and always working.
Things have changed personally for me (since joining RTT). I now have a full-time job as a tour guide. I get to meet people from all across the globe. I have the opportunity to be an ambassador of my community and to some extent, even the city because I am the touch-point for the people who are a part of our tours. In turn, I am also exposed to different perspectives and worldviews. This isn’t something I would have had the opportunity to avail of at my previous job.”
Reality Tours and Travel is a travel social enterprise that empowers locals to lead tours around their community. It also channels 80 per cent of its profits back to the community.
Sleek landmarks, delicious hawker fare and shopping malls galore. The bustling city of Kuala Lumpur is where many congregate for a weekend of food and retail therapy.
But Malaysia’s capital is also as warm-hearted as it is warm. Creative, independent businesses and entrepreneurs invite you to immerse yourself in authentic cultural experiences, while making a difference in their own unique way. Take the path less travelled in this tropical metropolis, and you will discover its heart.
Friday
Sekeping Tenggiri, Restoran Sri Nirwana Maju, Batik Boutique, exploring Brickfields, PB Blind Massage, De'Divine Cafe, PichaEats' Open House (if available) or Charlie's Cafe
Saturday
Bike with Elena, RIUH Bazaar and Bangsar, Eat X Dignity, klpac
Arrive in Kuala Lumpur and head to Sekeping Tenggiri guesthouse in Bangsar. Tucked behind lush greenery, this rustic property reduces its carbon footprint through natural ventilation, cleverly positioned light shafts and recycled materials. As check-in typically begins at 2pm, drop off your luggage with the housekeeper before heading out to lunch.
Take a 15-min walk to Restoran Sri Nirwana Maju and tuck into (one of) the best banana leaf rice in town. Waiters come round to dish out three types of vegetables, white rice and curry, and you can add on a serving of their crowd-pleasing fried squid or chicken. Top it off with a refreshing cup of mango lassi (yoghurt smoothie) – but don’t be surprised by the absence of a straw. The restaurant recently embarked on a straw-free campaign and also plans to phase out the use of plastic cups.
After lunch, spend the afternoon immersing yourself in a Malaysian cultural experience: exercise your creativity at a batik-making workshop, or take a heritage walk to discover Brickfields known as KL’s Little India.
For the former, take a 15-minute taxi ride (we recommend ride sharing apps like Grab) to Batik Boutique in the Sri Hartamas area, to learn the intricacies of Batik dyeing. The class begins with a brief history of the wax-resist dye tradition, followed by an introduction to different techniques such as block printing and “canting” (drawing with a pen-like tool).
As you work your artistic vision onto fabric, you’re also supporting a good cause: Batik Boutique trains and hires women from low-income backgrounds as seamstresses to produce their range of clothing, accessories and homeware. Check out their boutique and pick up some stylish souvenirs that support their cause.
Batik not your cup of tea? Take a walk through Brickfields, KL’s “Little India” that’s also home to diverse places of worship that capture Malaysia’s multicultural and multireligious heritage.
Start at the 114-year-old heritage site Vivekananda Ashrama, built in 1904 to commemorate the prominent Indian Hindu monk Swami Vivekananda.
After exploring the grounds, exit and turn left onto Jalan Tun Sambanthan. A large colourful fountain and a sandstone archway (the Torana Gate, a gift to Malaysia from the Government of India) mark the start of Little India’s main street. Switch on your senses and explore away: feast your eyes on the rainbow of sarees, sniff the myriad spices, fruits and flower garlands, and groove to Bollywood beats blasting from shophouse speakers. Take a pit stop at Restoran Chat Masala and order a teh ais tarik (iced pulled tea) to cool down.
Cross the street onto Jalan Sultan Abdul Samad and spot the Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady of Fatima. Walk on for 300m and turn right onto Jalan Berhala, where you’ll find Maha Vihara, a Sinhalese-Buddhist temple that dates back to 1895. Retrace your steps to Jalan Sultan Abdul Samad – just down the road is Zion Cathedral, a Lutheran church founded in 1924.
Walk on for 300m and turn left towards Jalan Thambipillay to soothe your tired feet at PB Blind Massage. Paralympian Lee Seng Chow started this traditional Chinese massage centre, which is staffed by professionally-trained visually impaired therapists.
At the end of the street, be prepared to queue for the city’s most popular banana fritters at the roadside stall Brickfields Pisang Goreng (across from YMCA). Enjoy your piping hot snack as you stroll for 500m (head right on Jalan Tun Sambanthan before turning left onto Jalan Tebing) towards the 116-year old Hindu Sri Kwandasamy Temple. Wrap up your urban hike with a drink at De’Divine café, located just across the temple. The cafe trains and employs underprivileged youth and school dropouts, so you can enjoy a chendol smoothie whilst supporting a worthy cause.
After a full afternoon out and about, head back to Sekeping Tenggiri to check in and freshen up before dinner.
A unique dining experience awaits you at PichaEats’ Open House. Step into a refugee family’s home and get a taste of their food and culture. Over a spread of traditional dishes, you’ll hear first-hand stories that provide a glimpse into life as a refugee in Malaysia.
These families come from various communities: Afghan, Burmese (Chin), Burmese (Rohingya), Iraqi, Palestinian and Syrian. Through offering catering services and Open Houses, PichaEats provides the refugees with a source of income and allows visitors to gain insight into their unique cultures.
Alternatively, head over to Charlie’s Café – a popular neighbourhood joint that serves Malaysian favourites and hearty Western fare. This cosy café in Taman Desa doesn’t only satisfy diners with tasty Sarawak laksa and fried chicken chop. It allows them to play a part in feeding the homeless through “pay-it-forward” meal vouchers. Every RM5 (US$1.20) voucher buys a catered-and-delivered meal for someone in need. In addition, owner Desonny Tuzan supports the livelihood of indigenous Hulu Langat farmers by sourcing agricultural produce from them.
Start your day bright and early by exploring the heart of the city the eco-friendly way — on two wheels with Bike with Elena. Bike down discreet alleyways as guide Elena Mei Yun weaves a fascinating tapestry of the history and culture of KL. The tour passes the city’s landmarks — Merdeka Square, Sultan Abdul Samad Building, Jamek Mosque, Sri Mahamariamman Temple, Guan Di Temple, Petaling Street (“Chinatown”) and Kampung Baru. Pause to observe the striking contrast of old kampung houses against the Petronas Twin Towers, before capping off the ride with lunch at a locals-only spot. Part of the tour proceeds goes towards the conservation of a 100-year-old Kampung Baru home.
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9am
Return to Sekeping Tenggiri to rest or freshen up, before heading out to the RIUH Bazaar at APW Bangsar (a 10-min walk away). Open on selected weekends, the bazaar features a delectable range of food, fashion and craft by local artisans.
While Bangsar is a largely residential area, Jalan Telawi and Bangsar Village mall (a 15-min walk away) house some of the city’s chicest cafes, boutiques and creative spaces. Don’t miss popping by family-run stationery trove CzipLee and quirky Malaysian souvenir store APOM!. Tip: If you struggled to choose between Batik and Brickfields on Friday, you can skip Bangsar and explore Brickfields instead.
Take a Grab ride over to Eat X Dignity in the Sentul area to enjoy a modern mix of Malaysian, Asian-Fusion and Western cuisine. An initiative by the Dignity for Children Foundation, all proceeds from the café support the education of underprivileged children. Take the chance to walk around their outdoor Kitchen Garden, which doubles up as an outdoor classroom for the foundation’s students. It’s also a good time to spot the greens that will make their way into your dishes and drinks!
You can call it a day (it was after all an early start), or power on to catch a show at the non-profit klpac (Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre) in support of the Malaysian performing arts scene. Sit back and enjoy a concert, dance, musical or play.
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SUNDAY
Take a leisurely stroll to breakfast. Just five minutes away is Ganga, which serves delicious roti canai (Indian-style flatbread both crispy and chewy) and nasi lemak (savoury rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf). Here’s a twist: The anchovies in the nasi lemak sambal (which packs a punch) are actually made from soybeans, as Ganga is a vegetarian restaurant.
If you prefer to sample some Peranakan (Straits Chinese) flavours, just further down the street is Baba’s Low 486 where you’ll find traditional favourites like mee siam, laksa, popiah and cendol.
Head back to check out from Sekeping Tenggiri by 11am, before bidding farewell to your Weekend of Good in Kuala Lumpur.
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Before your trip, remember to place the necessary bookings for Sekeping Tenggiri, Batik Boutique’s workshop, PichaEats' Open House and Bike with Elena. For PichaEats, solo travellers can book via Lokalocal, while groups of 12 can book directly with PichaEats.
Download the Grab ride-hailing mobile app, as walking or taking public transport isn't always feasible.
Although KL is generally safe, it’s best to walk around the streets with a small cross-body bag (in front of your body). This is a good precaution against snatch thefts.
Mettaa Reflexology is a no-frills spa started in 2008 that employs the visually-challenged as massage therapists, providing them with skills and dignified employment
Joanita Figueredo
Mettaa Reflexology
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“These kids (her team of massage therapists) keep me grounded. They are my spiritual teachers.
One day at the end of their work-shift, I was checking-in with them on the tips they had received. One of them had had three clients and received 500 rupees (US$7.30) in tips while another had five clients and received 100 rupees (US$1.45) in tips. Out of my own maternal need to offer comfort, I reached out to the second one and said, 'Don’t worry. I know you work hard. Tomorrow will be a better day.'
And much to my surprise, she turned back to me saying, 'You worry so much! I’m going to split this 100 rupees between a talk-time recharge for my cell-phone and a chocolate bar. That takes care of my needs for today. What else do I need?'
Where else can I learn this from? They are very intuitive and their understanding of their surroundings is far more nuanced than ours as abled-bodied individuals. They show me every day how not to get carried away by anyone or anything.
Today, each one of them takes home a salary every month, not including their earnings through tips, that allows them to contribute towards the expenses of their families and also set some aside as savings. As a team, we go on outings, celebrate birthdays and look out for each other.
Even after all this time, I still get very excited when a celebrity or well-known personality comes in for an appointment at Mettaa. Then one of my therapists will tap me on my shoulder, reminding me that this is just another client. They are a lot more accepting of everyone irrespective of their background or appearance.”
ARTISANS’ is an exhibition space and store that seeks to empower artisans from various parts of India, by showcasing and selling their creations. In doing so, it seeks to keep unique local traditions and crafts alive.
Radhi Parekh
founder of ARTISANS’
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“When I moved back to India in 2009, I was concerned by the mall culture taking over and homogenising the local character. I was motivated to create a place that would serve as a reminder of the unique local identities I wanted to promote and protect.
That led to the birth of ARTISANS’, which continues to be driven by this goal of sensitising the consumer to the story and the context of the artisan and their community.
I owe it to my education in design which pushed me to think of solutions for larger socio-economic problems from a 360-degree perspective.
As a social enterprise, we go beyond the product - the technique, design and material used - to talk more about the individuals and the communities where these arts and crafts were born, how they once thrived and now struggle to survive with the onslaught of mass production, cheap imitations and replicas masquerading as originals.
We were the first to launch the artisan entrepreneurs from Kutch in western India, who in a bid to keep alive their tradition, have begun to design for the urban markets. The feedback they receive from ARTISANS’ is an important part of the design cycle. Likewise we’re mentoring women from a village in northeast India who lead the design development by guiding them on costing and market-readiness of the products.
ARTISANS’ is about creating a marketplace to support livelihoods and the living heritage in as sustainable a manner as possible.”
With its powder sand beaches and crystalline seas, Palawan’s charms need no introduction. But sail away with Tao, and see paradise in a new light.
An island voyage of adventure and empowerment
Article contributors
With its powder sand beaches and crystalline seas, Palawan’s charms need no introduction. But sail away with Tao on a journey of empowerment and adventure, and see paradise in a whole new light.
MEET BONG AND THE LOST BOYS
When expedition leader Bong gives a command, his crewmen spring into action, running our bangka (a common term for boats in the Philippines) with skill and efficiency.
Hardly the Lost Boys of Peter Pan, but that’s what the crew is affectionately called, a reference to their ragtag beginnings. Coming from the many different islands that make up Palawan, they were youth fresh out of school, in need of purpose and livelihoods.
Along came Tao, which wanted to offer travellers the chance to see Palawan’s unspoilt side, and discovered it could provide opportunities to the impoverished communities that call these islands home.
Bong, for example, was 24 and working as a fisherman and farmer in Puerto Princesa, when he was recruited by his cousin to join Tao. Beginning as a runner and cook, he eventually became in charge of his own ship, bringing in the values that he learned as a neophyte.
“I learnt a lot here, especially in handling guests that I never knew before,” says Bong, now 30. “My life was way harder than before. Tao gave me a sustainable means of earning. They gave me health and employment benefits, which I am grateful.”
WILD CHARMS, WARM HEARTS
Palawan’s island beauty is world-famous, but right from the start, Tao wanted to offer guests a different experience away from the standard resorts found in tourist towns like Coron and El Nido.
The founders, inspired by a free-spirited expedition they made around Palawan guided by the weather and their instincts — “with mosquito nets for walls, stars for a roof” — sought to recreate that experience for other travellers by setting up Tao in 2006.
Guests could sign up for sailing expeditions to Palawan’s more remote islands, sleeping in custom-built camps on the beaches. The raw, carefree experience was a runaway success and Tao’s reputation spread like wildfire — from a handful of guests, it now has hundreds each week.
But as we were to discover, another reason Tao has prevailed for almost 13 years is its connection to the local communities they work with.
Believing that a business only thrives if it also benefits the communities on the islands visited, Tao channels part of its revenue to its community development projects.
It builds a relationship with each community by engaging them to find out what their needs are. Tao then helps each community develop skills, such as training locals to give massages, make soap and massage oil, ferment fruits and raise livestock like poultry and pigs.
Finally, they secure their incomes by becoming the communities’ customers, such as by buying produce and soaps from them, and engaging them to provide Tao guests with massages — one I can say was the most relaxing experience I’d ever had.
The communities can also sell their products to other businesses in Palawan, a process that Tao is happy to facilitate.
WANDER WITH PURPOSE
Visit Tao’s website, you’ll be reminded throughout that the journey “is not meant for everyone”, and I was eager to find out whether I was up to the challenge of a different experience.
Our trip would start in Coron and end in El Nido. Once aboard, I immediately felt as though I was living the life of a pirate (minus the robbing). You experience what it means to live in the present, with whatever is available — what the boat carries, what the sea gives for food, where the weather takes you. Unlike hotels and resorts, you interact closely with the crew every day as they go about their work.
One of the highlights is the Tuka huts, the simple yet elegant bamboo structures that have become Tao’s signature lodging. Tuka is Tagalog for “beak”, and as its name implies, the Tuka huts have roofs shaped like a bird’s beak, curving gracefully into the air.
Not everyone wants to give up air-conditioned comforts, but for us, going to sleep beneath the open, airy Tukas sent off by the sound of waves, and waking up to the sight of the sea, was paradise.
And behind the Tukas’ rustic coziness is a great story. Each of the islands we camped on has 10 or more Tukas. Each Tuka is built by three to five locals, using three materials: nipa palm leaves, nylon and bamboo; in particular, a species of bamboo called bayog because of its sturdiness and abundance in Palawan.
“It is typhoon-ready. The bamboos are bent because the more it exerts force against each other, the stronger and sturdier it gets. It will just tumble over strong winds [but] the structure will remain,” Bong explains.
The Tukas provide one-of-a kind lodging to the guest, and support local employment and business. The furnishings in each Tuka — bed linens and tote bags for the guests — are produced locally, and the women’s association making these products has formed a cooperative to manage its earning activities.
Knowing the source and purpose behind the materials that surrounded us made the experience truly unforgettable.
Guests can also stay on the Tao Farm, which serves as the nexus of all things Tao: its administrative office, the Tao Foundation which provides livelihood training, Tuka lodges for guests, and the Kantina, where the magic of food preparation happens.
At dinnertime, the Kantina lights up as skilled chefs fire up the burners and cook before the guests, and the aroma of fresh meat and produce cooking fills the air — a true feast for the senses. As a seven-course meal is served, staff explain what each dish is and how they are prepared, and share about the farm at the Kantina where the food comes from.
LIVES CHANGED
To ensure that livelihoods are sustained, Tao has added other projects over the years, such as daycare centres. “Because if we are going to ask the women to work or manufacture, they need someone to look after the kids,” says Alejandro Pirela, who is in charge of outreach and product development at Tao.
Partnering with the Philippines’ Department of Social Welfare and Development, Tao sent women to be trained as childcare teachers, and built the centres.
Among the women trained is Maricris (pictured above), who joined Tao in 2016 as a masseuse, and is now a teacher at the daycare center on Papachelin, one of Tao’s island bases.
Says Maricris: “We used to loiter before. We sleep when the night comes, without even thinking about getting a job. When we started training for Tao Philippines, we woke up with a purpose. We became excited to get our job done.”
During the rainy season when there are no trips, Tao sends its staff for training. It has also supported employees with the potential to further their studies, such as Jimmy, who is now a biologist.
A former “lost boy”, Jimmy (pictured above) joined as a crew member on the expedition boats, and left to attend university in 2009. But every semester break, he returned to Tao Farm and helped with its construction until it was completed — the same year he graduated.
Now, he is Tao’s resident biologist, and is in charge of securing food supply across the entire enterprise — a challenge as Palawan suffers from overfishing and the negative impact of slash-and-burn farming. Jimmy is now studying how to farm in a way that complements nature.
Asked why he chose to return to Tao Philippines, Jimmy says, “What I liked about our company is that they are sincere in helping. They give livelihood for the people, they also build foundations. On remote islands, they construct learning centres. That’s what I like about Tao, they help others and these communities help them, too.”
THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE
Tao Philippines was built in mutual partnership with the island communities.
When you travel with Tao, you support local employment, as well as community projects and training that sustain livelihoods and help entrepreneurship to thrive. Currently, it works with over 200 islanders.
Glitzy, straitlaced, business-driven. Multi-cultural, creative, warm-hearted. Two sides of Singapore, one city. Here's how to spend a weekend there, while doing some good.
A glitzy, business-driven city governed by strict laws, clean and carefully groomed down to the trees flanking its roads — that’s Singapore, in the minds of many visitors.
Look past the skyscrapers however, and you’ll find heritage districts that have retained their historic flair while undergoing a renaissance, hidden cultural gems and quiet streets steeped in character.
And beneath the bustle of commercial activity, there are individuals and enterprises on a mission to deliver authentic experiences while championing a meaningful cause.
Friday
Tribe Tours, Breakthrough Cafe, The Social Space, Design Singapore, My Foot Reflexology
Saturday
Cycling with Let's Go Bike Singapore, National Gallery Singapore, Gardens by the Bay, Soon Huat Bak Ku Teh, Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong
Sunday
Guided walk with a.t Bukit Brown, Henderson Waves, Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle, Center Pottery, One Kind House, Geylang Adventures
Start your day by stepping back in time to learn more about Singapore’s early years withTribe Tours, which prides itself on building strong bonds with local community and maintaining respect for local craft to deliver guided experiences with heart. Try their Disappearing Tradestour, which immerses you in traditional trades that are past their heydays but still carried on by passionate craftsmen thrilled to share their skill.
The tour takes you to a local coffee roasting factory, a traditional bakery that has been turning out fragrant, fluffy loaves for decades, and a workshop where intricate paper houses are painstakingly created as an offering for the dead as part of Chinese customs. Every stop is a step into living history, and an opportunity to connect with ordinary folks who were part of Singapore’s crucial post-independence years.
For lunch, drop by Breakthrough Café for dim sum, which are tasty, Cantonese-style small bites. Located along a row of food shops on the ground floor of People’s Park Centre in Chinatown, the service is friendly, the food is satisfying and the mission warms the heart: the eatery offers former drug offenders employment, allowing them to hone their skills to make a fresh start.
After filling your stomach, take a leisurely stroll along Eu Tong Sen Street and soak in historic sights like buildings such as People’s Park Complex, the former Majestic Hotel and Sri Mariamman Temple, Singapore's oldest Hindu Temple. For a glimpse of what goes on in a typical market, take a small detour to Chinatown Market and get up close to the action at the various stalls selling fresh produce, meats and fish.
Next, take shelter from the afternoon heat at The Social Spaceon Kreta Ayer Street. Comprising a café with healthy vegetarian options, a retail space and a nail salon, the multi-concept store is chic and cheery, with a carefully-curated selection of high-quality, fair-trade products that don’t harm the environment or support a social cause. Many are made in Southeast Asia and make for perfect souvenirs. You can also treat yourself to a manicure by The Nail Social, which trains and employers underprivileged women to help improve their livelihoods.
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Continue with the retail therapy by hopping on the train to Somerset station (along the North-South Line on the MRT, the city's metro system ), which will take you to Design Orchard, the latest addition to the stretch of glitzy malls in the heart of Orchard Road. Home to 61 home-grown brands, you can find locally-designed clothes, accessories, home furnishing and even food souvenirs here. There’s also an amphitheatre at the rooftop, perfect for chilling and people-watching after your retail therapy session.
If you passed on getting a manicure earlier, consider a massage at My Foot Reflexology in Midpoint Orchard just beside Design Orchard. Its ordinary shopfront belies its heartfelt mission: it employs the visually-impaired as therapists, and the service is deft and seamless.
Have a laid-back dinner atCrossings Cafe, tucked away in the Catholic Centre on Waterloo Street, which serves well-priced comfort food blending local and western flavours, such as chilli crab pasta. The social enterprise employs people from disadvantaged backgrounds to help them get a stronger footing in life, and also donates its proceeds to charity.
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Public transport in Singapore is efficient and affordable, but cycling allows you to breezily explore the back lanes of each district, while keeping you carbon footprint small.
Let’s Go Bike Singapore’s Historical Singapore Bike Tour takes you along the Singapore River, across Marina Bay, the Civic District and the main cultural districts like Chinatown and Kampong Glam. You guide will share stories of Singapore’s early development as you retrace the steps of migrant communities in search of a better life. The tour starts and ends at the bike shop located at Crawford Lane, accessible on foot from Lavender MRT station.
If cycling is not your thing, sleep in a little before making your way to the National Gallery Singapore and browse the world’s largest public collection of modern Southeast Asian art. Housed in the former City Hall and former Supreme Court, the museum’s classic-meets-modern architecture, stunning interior and unique environmentally-friendly features draw just as much attention as its exhibitions.
Public transport in Singapore is efficient and affordable, but cycling allows you to breezily explore the back lanes of each district, while keeping you carbon footprint small.
Let’s Go Bike Singapore’s Historical Singapore Bike Tour takes you along the Singapore River, across Marina Bay, the Civic District and the main cultural districts like Chinatown and Kampong Glam. You guide will share stories of Singapore’s early development as you retrace the steps of migrant communities in search of a better life. The tour starts and ends at the bike shop located at Crawford Lane, accessible on foot from Lavender MRT station.
If cycling is not your thing, sleep in a little before making your way to the National Gallery Singapore and browse the world’s largest public collection of modern Southeast Asian art. Housed in the former City Hall and former Supreme Court, the museum’s classic-meets-modern architecture, stunning interior and unique environmentally-friendly features draw just as much attention as its exhibitions.
For lunch, hit up Mahota Commune, not far from Little India and the Jalan Besar Conservation Area. The space consists of a farm-to-table restaurant, a bakery, a retail space and even a clinic. Enjoy wholesome pastas, salads or sharing platters made from seasonal organic produce responsibly sourced from farms around the region.
An alternative within the city centre isThe Caffeine Experience, which has outlets at Tanjong Pagar and on Orchard Road, making it a convenient stop for a light lunch and a great cup of coffee. Believing that everyone deserves a good meal and a second chance, the café hires former drug offenders to give them a means to regain their confidence and make a living. Note that the Tanjong Pagar outlet closes at 2pm on Saturdays and is closed on Sundays.
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Cool off in the afternoon at Gardens by the Bay, a sprawling park comprising three waterfront gardens on 101ha of reclaimed land. Its futuristic Supertrees and cooled Conservatories are an impressive sight, as are its sustainability principles that ensure efficient use of energy and water, such as burning the bio-waste collected to generate energy for its needs.
For a small fee, audio tours are conducted daily where visitors are taken on a scenic and informative 25-minute ride around the Gardens. Or opt for the Auto Rider, an air-conditioned self-driving vehicle with live commentary on board. The park is a 15-minute walk from Bayfront MRT Station on the Circle or Downtown Line.
After a day exploring the island, reward yourself with dinner at Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong, on Haji Lane in the Kampong Glam area, a farm-to-table restaurant serving fish and shellfish from its own Singaporean kelong farm (traditional wooden platforms built over water). Dishes like curry mussels, grouper served with sweet potato noodles, and chilli crab risotto offer a fresh take on classic Southeast Asian flavours. It shares a space with local favourite Bar Stories, which can mix up bespoke cocktails to complement your food (and mood).
For those who don’t mind travelling a little further, take a taxi to Soon Huat Bak Kut Teh in Bedok in the eastern part of Singapore. Bak kut teh is pork ribs served in a rich, peppery or herbal broth, and Soon Huat also serves up a lightly-spiced “dry” version in a claypot, as well as other local dishes. The restaurant was founded by an ex-offender who offers those who have served time a new lease of life through employment.
Most people would not think of spending their Sunday mornings at a cemetery, but Bukit Brown Cemetery’s tranquil surroundings, varied history and famous graves possess an unusual appeal. Guided tours are available on scheduled weekends by a.t.Bukit Brown (All Things Bukit Brown), a volunteer group dedicated to keeping alive the history of Bukit Brown, which is under threat from development. There are also self-guided tour routes by the Singapore Heritage Society should you prefer to explore at your own pace.
If traipsing through jungle paths isn’t an option for you, consider visiting Henderson Waves, Singapore’s highest pedestrian bridge for your dose of lush urban greenery. A taxi can drop you near one end of the bridge, which has wide, flat paths. The bridge is part of the Southern Ridges, a 10-km long trail that connects parks along the southern part of the island.
After a morning outdoors, head to Food for Thoughtat the National Museum of Singapore for a hearty brunch. The social enterprise also allows you to give back, by sponsoring S$10 (US$7.20) food bundles for the underprivileged through Food Bank Singapore, or donating S$2 (US$1.40) to a well-building project in Asia.
History and craft meet at the traditional pottery kilns that have survived urbanisation in Boon Lay, at the western end of Singapore. Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle is home to Singapore’s oldest surviving wood-fired “dragon” kiln, so named for its distinctive, snaking structure. The friendly, family-run business has been flying the flag for traditional pottery in Singapore for decades from its rustic premises, and runs regular workshops for the public.
Alternatively, you can also visit Center Pottery in the historic Joo Chiat district, which also offers regular classes and sells more contemporary, handmade pieces by resident potters. Promoting the therapeutic benefits of working with clay for mental health, the social enterprise also conducts weekly classes at a home for the intellectually disabled.
Urban jungles like Singapore can feel isolating at times. Enter One Kind House for a pleasant reprieve and a chance to interact with locals and fellow travellers over an intimate, home-cooked dinner. The meal is prepared by the resident chef and head of the household — affectionately known as Mummy Soh — and served in her family home in Joo Chiat. One Kind House, which aims to keep local culture and community alive, also offers cooking classes.
If you are early, take a walk around Joo Chiat and Katong, once the enclave of the Peranakans, Straits-born people of Chinese and Malay or Indonesian descent, who over centuries developed a rich craft and cuisine heavily influenced by their multicultural heritage. The neighbourhood is identified by the colourful, intricate shophouse facades that line the narrow streets.
A grittier alternative is Geylang Adventures, which takes you on a guided tour of Geylang, Singapore’s red-light district. Its guides offer a thought-provoking commentary that mixes cultural interest with pertinent local social and policy issues, giving you a nuanced view of life in Singapore rarely seen by tourists — and a chance to enjoy mouthwatering food along the way. Founded as an initiative to support the marginalised migrant worker community in Singapore, it runs projects such as giving free haircuts for migrant workers and the poor on weekends.
It now also offers a tour in the neighbourhood of Dakota, which lets you take in the quaint charms of one of Singapore's oldest housing estates, while learning about how redevelopment plans affected the elderly who called it home.
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Stay at PARKROYAL on Pickering for its central location, lush interior and innovative, eco-friendly features.
All MRT stations have at least one barrier-free route with a lift, tactile guidance systems and wheelchair-accessible toilets. On the roads, more than half the public buses are wheelchair accessible. In addition, all public roads, most pedestrian walkways, taxis and bus shelters are barrier-free to facilitate movement of people with mobility problems.
Experience Thailand’s high life: immerse yourself in the northern hill tribes, who are working hard to build new livelihoods with the help of Local Alike.
Northern Thailand’s hill tribes turn a new leaf
Article contributors
Experience Thailand’s high life beyond the paradiscal beaches and glossy skyscrapers. Known for its notorious opium trade in the late 1960s, the hill tribes of northern Thailand are working hard to recover from their dark past with the help of Local Alike, a community-based tourism enterprise.
Meet Achai
“The jungle is my supermarket,” jokes Phetcharat Wiboonsrisakul, during his daily walk along the hilly jungle trails close to Suan Pa, a village in the Chiang Rai district.
Achai, as he is affectionately known, prepares every meal from scratch using fresh vegetables, spices and fruits from his “backyard” — the rolling green hills that extend as far as the eye can see.
The tourism community leader of his village, Achai is from the Akha tribe — one of the six main indigenous communities that reside in the hills of northern Thailand.
He is part of a recent influx of locals who have returned to the hills looking to make a living in a region once plagued by border disputes, opium cultivation and addiction.
With support from initiatives by the Thai royal family, the villagers are geared up for a revival, and community-based tourism is the region’s new beacon of hope.
An elevated experience
Shopping in the “supermarket” with Achai was the start of my three-day journey organised by Local Alike, during which I would visit Suan Pa and Pha Mee, two of the Akha villages that dot northern Thailand’s imposing mountains.
Achai earnestly shared some of the secrets of the Akha, pointing out to me different medicinal herbs for muscle pains and insect bites, and continually thanking the spirit birds for replenishing the flora in the jungle.
The trek — which can be customised according to guests’ fitness levels — culminated in lunch prepared and served in a raised bamboo hut, where I witnessed “lam pla”, a traditional way of cooking in bamboo over an open fire.
With its gorgeous surroundings and vibrant cottage industries like coffee, weaving and pottery, the future of Suan Pa’s determined community looks rosy.
Responsible tourism
The seed for Local Alike’s involvement in Suan Pa was planted when its CEO, Somsak Bookam, and Achai first met and discovered a mutual desire to preserve culture and nature by working hand in hand to provide meaningful travel experiences.
Founded in 2012, Local Alike assesses each community’s needs and their readiness for tourism. Those selected receive support in creating unique experiences for travellers that Local Alike then features on its website, which also manages the booking and payments.
Prices are determined by each community, which keeps 70 per cent of revenue generated from each booking.
Akha homestays are not uncommon, but Suan Pa is not ready to offer them yet, and I was glad to see that they did not feel compelled to open their houses for tourism’s sake. There is a disturbing trend of commercial tour agencies compelling villagers to be fully decked out in traditional Akha dresses and vibrant headgear — something I too, expected to see, only to have this perception debunked.
“Many of the tribal people now prefer to wear more modern western clothes as they are lighter and more comfortable. The culture has evolved and we respect that — rather than forcing them to wear their traditional clothes all day just for gawking tourists,” shares Krishna Manowang, nicknamed Bic, my Suan Pa guide.
As for concerns that tourism may dilute the Akha tribal culture, Phakakan Rungpracharat, the tourism community leader at my next stop, Pha Mee, allays this fear.
“When we share our traditional ways with people from outside, they show appreciation. It makes us feel proud when they share our photos and videos. It encourages the younger generation to continue holding on to their roots,” says Phakakan, who goes by Maew.
Ethical travelling, lasting impact
Pha Mee, named after the famous “Bear Mountain”, is home to one of the latest communities to join Local Alike’s network. More bustling than Suan Pa, new homestays, coffee shops and souvenir stores have emerged to add a bustling vibe to the gentle charms of the village.
With its stunning mountain vistas, Pha Mee seemed ripe for tourism but Maew’s efforts were not fruitful until she joined hands with Local Alike, whose expertise helped bridge the gap between the community and tourists.
A stay at Pha Mee is a chance to work alongside locals trying your hand at making traditional coffee, picking oranges in the orchard and painting dried gourds, which are smaller versions of ones that were once used by villagers as water vessels.
“When I was working in the capital, I had some pretty awful tasting coffee. That is when I realised how tasty our home brew is. Why not share it with a wider community?” says Maew, as she demonstrates making coffee with a bamboo “drip machine”.
Akha tribes still practice their ancient rituals and all entrances to the villages have protective “spirit gates” — marking the division between man and the spirit life. Sacred sites are off limits to visitors, who must content themselves with viewing replicas at the village’s cultural centre.
The centre also features an iconic giant Akha swing, part of an ancient tradition that takes centre stage during the annual harvest thanksgiving celebration in August. Bachelors show off their swing skills to impress those they are courting.
Inspired by the success of Suan Pa and Pha Mee through partnership with Local Alike, Bic hopes to someday bring positive impact to his own hometown, guided by his belief that we are all “same same but different”. “Only upon venturing out, and appreciating other cultures, will one have the perspective to look into your own and appreciate the true value of home.”
Local Alike was one of the winners of Singapore International Foundation’s Young Social Entrepreneurs programme https://www.sif.org.sg/our-work/gb/yse/about in 2014. Through mentorships, study visits, and opportunities to pitch for funding, the programme nurtures social entrepreneurs of different nationalities, to drive positive change for the world.
THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE
If you live in Bangkok, consider ordering a meal from Local Aroi D, and look out for pop-up dining experiences featuring menus inspired by hill tribe cuisines. Your order will support the tribes supplying the ingredients for these meals, the chefs hired from local communities to prepare these meals, as well as promote more awareness of the respective tribes’ cultures.
When travel resumes, consider booking a trip with Local Alike. By exploring communities like Suan Pa and Pha Mee through Local Alike, you help to support responsible tourism led by the local community members, and fuel sustainable livelihoods. It also helps to foster cultural exchange and encourage the preservation of traditions. As of 2019, Local Alike has worked with 100 villages in 42 provinces and created over 2,000 part-time jobs.
