In the early 18th century, wealthy merchants built sumptuously-decorated mansions in Nawalgarh, filling the streets with colour. Those days are gone, but the mansions and artisans remain. Make Apani Dhani your base for exploring the town, and support the preservation of its dazzling history. 

MEET RAMESH

Walking into Apani Dhani feels like entering a different dimension — a hush falls, the air cools, and you immediately feel at home amid the bougainvilleas that spill onto the circular yard, flanked by a lodge with soothing earthen-hued walls. 

Welcoming me was Ramesh Jangid, the founder and owner of Apani Dhani, the homestay he started in the town of Nawalgarh as a response — and a retreat — from the ills of the world. 

Nawalgarh — famed for its colourfully frescoed mansions — was becoming increasingly popular with travellers, and Ramesh wanted to create a space that would see some of the benefits flow to the local community.   

“In the mid-1980s, I’d observed how tourism was leaning towards being increasingly exclusive,” says Ramesh, who was born in Nawalgarh. “I wanted to localise the experience for the tourist while working towards better distribution of income from tourism among locals.”

As such, at Apani Dhani, careful attention is paid to respecting the host community, from growing native produce and supporting local livelihoods, to using earth-friendly materials to construct the lodge, to installing solar power to minimise its carbon footprint. 

FLOURISHING LEGACY — AND LIVES

Sitting pretty in the heart of the Shekhawati region, Nawalgarh is a compact yet culturally- rich base for exploring the northern Indian state of Rajasthan. 

Dating back to the early 18th century, the town was founded by merchant families, who built havelis (mansions) adorned with murals on the walls, depicting everyday life, folk legends and religious themes. 

Many of the murals have been lost to the passage of time, but thanks to restoration efforts, a stroll through Nawalgarh’s streets is still akin to making your way through an open-air museum, flanked by intricate, colour artwork on the walls.

Preserving the cultural heritage and helping it thrive is part of Apani Dhani’s work — the enterprise leads the Shekhawati chapter of the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage. 

Guests can take a guided walk designed by Apani Dhani through Nawalgarh, which are led by local guides, allowing them to earn an income while sharing their cultural heritage. 

One can also take part in workshops on wood carving, tie-dyeing, bangle-making led by local artisans.

Among them is tie-dye artist Usman Ali, who teaches workshops at Apani Dhani with his daughter, Sonu.

“Tie and dye is not an easy craft. It’s a long and arduous process. And in today’s day and age of factory produced goods that are identical, handmade arts and crafts have begun to take the fall,” laments Usman.

“The experience of coming here and teaching guests about the art offers an opportunity to not only keep the art alive but also have an exchange with the guests. It also provides me with income to take back to my family,” he adds. 

Sher Bano, who conducts bangle-making workshops, agrees. “Besides being an additional source of income, coming here to teach women from different parts of the world about the process of bangle-making is also an opportunity for me to know something about nationalities and cultures that are different than my own,” she adds. 

The workshop fees go entirely to the artisans — Apani Dhani does not take a cut.

GREEN, PEACE 

Ramesh recalls how when he first bought the land Apani Dhani sits on, it was barren. “What you see today has been built bit by bit, in accordance with our means and inspired by the trips I made within Rajasthan to better understand the details of rural architecture,” he says. 

On the Apani Dhani compound, this care is evident, from decorative touches inspired by Rajasthani traditions, to the buildings constructed from natural materials like adobe (mud bricks) and thatched straw. Solar power provides electricity and hot running water, and Apani Dhani meticulously recycles its waste where possible. 

Stroll through the organic garden to admire the bountiful plots of grains, vegetables, fruits and flowers, a stark contrast to the bare plots seen elsewhere, and a marker of how much Apani Dhani has transformed its turf. 

Pride is taken in the house-baked bread, and any food items that aren’t grown locally — such as rice or tea — are sourced directly, be it from other producers in Rajasthan or elsewhere in India.

Meals at Apani Dhani are experiences in themselves, especially dinners, which are communal, offering guests a chance to interact. The meal typically features a soup, traditional Indian vegetarian food that is specific to the Shekhawati region, followed by dessert and a cup of tea.

Love the food? Try cooking classes conducted by Ramesh’s son and daughter-in-law.

RESILIENCE FOR THE FUTURE

Aside from supporting local trades and crafts, Apani Dhani directs 5 per cent of its revenue from rooms towards supporting local initiatives, such as the READS Public School in the neighbouring town of Dundlod, which caters to students from low-income families. At the time of my visit, Apani Dhani was helping the school upgrade its computer lab, and providing benches and desks. 

To ensure it maintains true to its principles, Apani Dhani previously complied with standards under the French Association for Fair and Solidarity Tourism. In 2013, it won a Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award. 

Despite seeing the flow of travellers slow down in recent years, Ramesh is determined to remain true to Apani Dhani’s founding values. 

“We have proven our integrity and continue to stand by it, striving to be the difference we want to see in the world,” says Ramesh. 

Adventure sports and a chance to spot the world’s biggest flower are Ulu Geroh’s calling cards. But the indigenous Semai people who fend off threats to their forest are the real stars. Stay with them to experience the magic of the forest, and support their efforts to preserve their traditions and the environment.

MEET INSAN

For Bah Insan, protecting the forest is a way of life.

His people, the Semai, inhabited the forest for centuries as hunter-gatherers and are legendary for their affinity with nature: children as young as six are taught about the importance of the trees and can interpret animal behaviours to tell the presence of a predator.

“Our diet consists of fish that we catch from the river and ferns from the forest. We rely on rotan (rattan) and bamboo to build our houses,” he says. “Our very livelihood depends on the forest.”

Insan takes none of this for granted. That’s why he works as a guide for visitors to Ulu Geroh, his village in the northwestern state of Perak. “By creating greater awareness of the biodiversity of our forest, we can have a stronger voice to oppose activities that are harmful to the forest,” he explains.

Insan should know – just a few years ago, he joined forces with the locals to petition against illegal logging, and won.

BLOOM TIMES

Thousands of tourists have made their way to the Semai settlement of Ulu Geroh for one reason — to see the elusive Rafflesia, the world’s biggest flower.

Notoriously ephemeral, the Rafflesia grows only in the rainforests of Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines, and take nine months to grow before opening into a striking bloom that lasts only a few days. Sixty per cent of buds die before maturing.

While there are other locations in Malaysia to catch the fabled flower, your odds are best in Ulu Geroh, where researchers say the concentration of the flower is highest.

And while most Rafflesia sites are located hours or even days away from civilisation, the nearest Rafflesia site is a mere 30 minutes’ walk away from Kampung Batu, one of the five villages that make up Ulu Geroh.

Eco-tourism found its way to Ulu Geroh in the early 2000s when conservation group Malaysia Nature Society began working with the Semai to translate local knowledge into opportunities. For decades, the Semai had lived off the grid, marginalised by a lack of infrastructure.

Realising the potential of eco-tourism to create sustainable livelihoods, they formed Sahabat Eko-Pelancongan Memuliharaan Alam Indah (SEMAI), or Friends of Ecotourism and Conservation of Beautiful Nature, to oversee the efforts.

Proximity to the Rafflesia is not all Ulu Geroh has to offer. Over the years, the Semai have expanded offerings from Rafflesia day trips to include more immersive homestays for visitors to experience a centuries-old lifestyle deeply intertwined with nature.

COME FOR THE RAFFLESIA, STAY FOR THE LIFESTYLE

Kampung Batu is spread out over undulating emerald-green grassland thick with tropical fruit trees, herbal plants and flowering bushes, and giant boulders.

Amid this picturesque landscape stand the traditional Semai dwellings. Their simple structure belies their architectural ingenuity: assembled from bertam palm leaves and bamboo stems, these natural eco-lodges are sturdy and waterproof, able to shield against even heavy rain. Inside, bamboo stems form space-spacing shelves and compartments that would give Ikea a run for its money.

Through sponsorship from a CSR programme, five bamboo chalets were built for travellers next to the hillside, where all manner of fruit trees lie at your doorstep (I spotted duku langsat, mango, durian, coconut) and the temperature is deliciously cool at night.

The caveat? There is no electricity (you can charge your phone in your host’s home) and you answer the call of nature in an outhouse with a squat toilet.

Can’t live without your urban comforts? You can always opt for a host of eco-villas downstream that employ locals on their properties and hire locals as day trip guides. “When a visitor opts for these activities, my people also get to work and earn,” says Insan.

The Semai may live in permanent dwellings now, but aside from that, their lives have changed little from their peripatetic ancestors.

The traditional lifestyle demonstration during the tour may feel like its most touristy segment, but stands as living proof that the old ways are no less creative. I could barely keep up with the women’s lightning-fast fingers as they showed me the art of basket weaving using coconut leaves. Visitors can also learn how to set traps that snare animals in a way that kills them as painlessly as possible.

GREEN HAVEN

Surrounded by rivers and forests, Ulu Geroh is a haven for nature lovers, as my group would discover on our Rafflesia hike.

The rigorous trek took us up the Leech Trail (which lived up to its name, in case you’re wondering), where we lucked out: we saw three Rafflesia blooms and an unopened bud. Most people only succeed in seeing the Rafflesia in full bloom after multiple attempts.

Yes, totally worth it, even with the leeches. We celebrated with a proper feast back at the village: at least three kinds of river fish, several types of wild ferns and an array of spicy sambal paste laid out neatly in bowls on the floor.

In addition to its most famous flower, the forest teems with exotic wildlife, notably the Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing butterfly, a metallic-green-and-black beauty that stands out in an environment where the default mode is incognito.

Don’t miss the night walk that takes place after dinner. The leisurely one-hour stroll will open your eyes to a whole new world of nocturnal fauna and if you are lucky, glowing mushrooms.

My most memorable moment happened late afternoon on my first day.

Waiting for our blowpipe demonstration after lunch, I sat on the steps of my chalet observing a group of children playing nearby. They danced and sang traditional Semai songs, while darting occasional glances at us, the newcomers.

Suddenly, one of the older girls broke away from the group and plucked something from a nearby plant. Minutes later, she ran up to me with a big smile and placed something in my hand. It was a delicate necklace, strung out of the leaves of a tapioca plant — my welcome gift from the children of Ulu Geroh.

I knew then that a piece of my heart was lost forever.

Sumba’s unexplored beaches and quaint villages are set for a tourism boom, and your relaxing getaway in this island resort will help enthusiastic locals like Jeffry meet the demand – funds go towards training programmes to hone their hospitality skills.

MEET JEFFRY 

Curious, cheery and always ready with a smile, Jeffry is more than happy to show you around the place he calls home - the beautiful island of Sumba! Located near Bali, in the province of East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia, Sumba’s stunning coastline and lush greenery makes it an appealing attraction for travellers looking to get away from the crowds. He’s the proud graduate of a training programme by Sumba Hospitality Foundation, which provides Jeffry and the local farming community the opportunity to gain the skills needed to reap the economic benefits of tourism.

“To see economic hope for the future, you have to teach local people, so they will have the opportunity to work on their island.”

Redempta TetaBato, Director, Sumba Hospitality Foundation

FUN IN THE SUN

Who doesn't love relaxing on the beach? Or how about visiting a Sumbanese village to learn about their culture and traditions? For something a little more adventurous, you can also explore the Blue Waterfall, named for its unbelievably blue waters. These are just a few of the possible itineraries – there’s much more to explore, depending on your tastes and how much time you have.

DOWN TIME ON THE ISLAND

During your stay, you can also spend some time getting to know the students to learn more about Sumba, or share any valuable experiences that may deepen the students' knowledge or thirst for learning. If you feel like it, you can even participate in their community English classes, or sit in a culinary class!

Amid high-altitude alpine beauty, rest and relax in this rural retreat run with pride by residents working to ensure their way of life survives into the future.

MEET THE GOAT VILLAGE

As I neared the end of a scenic, six-and-a-half-hour car ride from the airport, the anticipation level was high.

I was at Raithal, a village nestled at 1,800m above sea level in the cradle of the Himalayas. At last.

Well, almost. The ride was followed by a 400m uphill walk to the destination (an off-the-grid farmstay) — a walk guaranteed to be a wake-up call for anyone leading a sedentary lifestyle.

Upon arrival at the Goat Village (Dayara Bugyal), Priyanka, a Raithal native, supervisor of the farmstay, welcomes the weary and breathless with a fragrant glass of warm water brewed with local herbs and spices.

The cool, alpine air is bracing for the spirit. Located in the north Indian state of Uttarakhand, Raithal is typically a base for trekkers making their way to Dayara Bugyal, a meadow at an elevation of 3,000m to 4,000m, where seasonal and wild flowers bloom year round.

But the village itself deserves more than a passing mention. Crisp, clear, postcard-perfect views of the snow-capped Himalayas allow even non-trekkers to take in their majesty. And it is here that the Goat Village has set up base to help the locals tap the potential of agro-tourism — agricultural tourism — while preserving the region’s pristine beauty and long history.

ALL OR NOTHING

For the active travellers, a day hike to Dayara Bugyal (elevation: 3,200m) is the obvious way to pass time at Raithal. Hikers cover 18km there and back, and the hike is a (heart-pumping) window into the natural world and a chance to learn about local herbs, plants and birds. You are also encouraged to pick up trash along the route, which can be disposed of properly upon returning to the village.

Those preferring a gentler pace can enjoy the peaceful grounds of the Goat Village, or explore Raithal’s stepped lanes, which hold a trove of local lore. Lined on either side with traditional houses made from deodar – cedars native to the Himalayas – and punctuated by newer dwellings of brick and mortar, the streets tell a revealing story of a village caught between tradition and modernity.

Less strenuous walks can be taken around the village, where you can take in glorious views of millet fields cut into steep-sided hills wreathed in mist.

Different lodgings are available to suit various tastes. There are elegantly cozy cottages for those who crave privacy, with dormitories for budget travellers, and the whole farm accommodates just 20 to 25 people at a time. Rooms come with double beds and bathrooms with direct water supply.

Designed and built for low energy consumption, only the dining area and kitchen are powered by electricity, while rooms have solar lamps and candles.

In recent years, the serenity is punctuated by a buzzy romance: a grand mass wedding ceremony of goats (yes, goats) from more than 30 villages in Uttarakhand.

Known as Bakri Swayamwar by the locals, a female goat chooses the “most eligible” male goat from a group of prospective “grooms”, in a nod to women’s empowerment.

The event is meant to instill pride in goat farming, and to educate farmers about improving the gene pool of mountain goats for healthier offspring and milk.

The next goat wedding takes place in late March 2020.

THE GREEN PEOPLE

The Goat Village (Dayara Bugyal) is one of several boutique farm-stays initiated by The Green People, a volunteer-driven enterprise that supports agro-tourism in rural Uttarakhand. Their goal? To encourage non-locals and locals to lead more sustainable lifestyles, while arresting the flow of migration to the cities, which has decimated rural villages.

Locals like Priyanka are provided with training in hospitality, and The Green People lease the land from local landowners like Harbeer, who is now also part of Priyanka’s team.

Sustainable tourism offers village youth an alternative to taking up odd, unskilled jobs in cities like Dehradrun (home to the nearest airport) and New Delhi, where they typically live in squalid conditions.

The Goat Village works by getting locals to feel invested in the project. For example, the community at Raithal has only been growing potatoes, soy, wheat and kidney beans, but now they’re reviving the cultivation of medicinal plants, flowers, vegetables and fruits that are native to the terrain and climate.

The locally-grown and locally-sourced grains, millets and pulses, as well as preserves such as honey are then sold as indigenous superfoods under the brand of Bakri Chaap, providing farmers with a direct link to their market.

STANDING TALL

Walking through Raithal, one would be hard-pressed to miss Panchpura, a 500-year-old ancestral house in the middle of the village. No longer able to accommodate the family that owns it — incidentally, the family Priyanka is descended from — the house now stands empty.

But it has withstood earthquakes as well as changing times, remaining a proud witness to the village’s history, and its people’s determination to keep their traditions alive and relevant. High above the madding crowd in the lofty arms of the Himalayas, its honey-hued walls stand waiting, for new generations of visitors — and whatever the future brings. 

“For us the city is an attractive place to be. Through the Goat Village, the idea that villages can be attractive and lucrative too is starting to take root.”

Priyanka Rana Farm supervisor, the Goat Village (Dayara Bugyal)